Stock finish question

A lot of variables.  There is some darkening of linseed oil and similar finishes over time and in light.  It Dark color can also be accumulations of dirt, especially on over oiled work.  Finally, linseed oil is food for mildew.  Sometimes you'll see that on older house points and stains that are in damp locations (and don't have mildicide addititive.  Really hard to know what you're looking but are the three possibilities.

 Some people want shiney high gloss finishes, others want years of patina.  Historical value tends to be the one that shows the most history.   What ever you do, I would not sand or use a metal scraper.  If you're looking to clean it of excess finish and dirt, maybe start with mineral spirits and a scrub brush.  Steel wool is about as abrasive as I would go.  You can do a search - as I recall some guys have removed all of the old finish on stocks with a stripper.

Mildew on house paint containing linseed oil is exposed to the changing environment and humidity.

Mildew will thrive on wood also. the conditions where where mold, mildew or fungus can grows on a rifle stock would also be an environment where I would have concern for the metal as well. 

Uncle Sam's only approved finish for wood rifle stocks is RAW linseed oil (RLO), with pure tung oil as a possible substitute.

If your finish is raw linseed oil, then applying new linseed oil will soften the dirt, grime and finish where you can wipe off some of the old finish. You can repeat until satisfactory, or move to a harsher method, like fine steel wool or a scotch bright with the RLO.  

If not a RLO finish then maybe try even hasher like the mineral spirits, which might take the patina with it.

When RLO is applied you put on a decent coat and wait 15-20 minutes or so, then wipe off the excess. You want the oil penetrating the wood pores, and building from there. You should never let a heavy coat dry as it will just be a sticky mess.

New2brass wrote: W5USMC wrote: Cont: on a .... gallon can, steer clear of it. Those numbers mean it's boiled oil. Re: (PTO) Pure Tung Oil; it was an approved alternative to RLO. do not confuse this with (BTO) boiled Tung Oil or any mixed Tung Oil that is not pure, has additives or modifiers. IMHO, stick to RLO

Never Boiled Linseed Oil! I would avoid water based strippers, Especially if there is a cartouche present 

But do your own research on these forums as it has been discussed over and over again. Two search methods, top of screen under banner picture there is a tool bar, right side there is a forum search (magnifying glass)

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