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Inland 7-43 M1 Carbine In 100% Original Condition?
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wade16 View Drop Down
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Points: 9 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote wade16 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Inland 7-43 M1 Carbine In 100% Original Condition?
    Posted: Jan 28 2026 at 11:46pm
I posted this carbine on another web site and they recommended posting it here for expert opinions. There are many photos posted on that site.


It is hard  for me to post that many photos on this site, so if possible, please view the post on the other web site to see the photos. 




Edited by W5USMC - Jan 29 2026 at 11:41am
Regards, Wade
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Connor38 View Drop Down
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Points: 38 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Connor38 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 29 2026 at 9:01am
I looked at you us militaria post. Gun looks like a great original salty piece. Possible slight stock sanding, but other than that I think is it’s good! 
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Looks as it should to me, wonder why the ridge above the push safety on the left side of the trigger housing is so banged up. Please fill out and submit a data sheet on this carbine, info linked below.
Wayne
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painter777 View Drop Down
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Points: 2352 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote painter777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 29 2026 at 12:38pm
Wade16,
Welcome,
Agree it looks original. I've found that the Type II stocks have trigger housing reveal at the bottom and often taken as the stock being sanded, which isn't the case. I've got dozens of examples.

Did you find the Safety hard to push back and forth? It appears those are pry marks on the trigger housing and stock. Also seeing some heavier wear on the bottom edge of the front of the Mag catch that maybe proves there was some type of internal binding long ago. Pics show the pry marks on the metal have since patina'd with age. I'm wondering if possibly the Mag catch plunger broke or came part at one time jumping/binding between the Mag catch and safety, thus the prying ??
Would be interesting to know the length of the current Plunger if you get in to it.

Butt plate: I have a few as rusty internally as yours is. I like to spray the inside with a Rust Convertor so the rust will stop. This will change the color. But it keeps me from having to keep removing it to maintain and I just maintain the outside as I get to it. I just don't like to keep stressing the thread holes.

I'd recommend you purchase the Carbine Club Newsletter #346 that covers your serial number block. You'll find it most useful.

It's Original Carbines like you've found that peeks our interest. Is there any more information available about the family or veteran that owned it you can share?

I would clean, lube and oil to include the stock as MattX passed along. Think of yourself as the current caretaker for the next generation. We are here for any help you may need filling out a Data Sheet.

Value
Increases if any history of the veteran can be added. As posted now in my area $2,700+

Ch-P777

PS: Inland 485,783  Op Slide Stop Pin: Type I or Type II? Anyone have a quick reference?
Is the Spring missing also? Once answered, A post to buy here in our WTB could find one for you.
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wade16 View Drop Down
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Points: 9 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote wade16 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 29 2026 at 4:31pm
Hi Painter777,
Thank you for your expertise. The safety slides easily. I appreciate the value estimate also. The story I got was that a 95 year old WW2 veteran had it ever since WW2. That is all. I was wondering if the stock and trigger housing might have been in a jeep mount and got banged around? I need a type 2 slide stop pin and spring. This forum is the place to go for the best information. I thank everyone for all the responses.
Regards, Wade
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painter777 View Drop Down
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Points: 2352 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote painter777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 29 2026 at 5:46pm
Thx Wade,
I never thought about a mount or possibly being padlocked causing that damage.
Tunnel vision on my part I guess.
Now thinking more about it, a real possibility indeed.
I had a Cardiac procedure yesterday and still a little loopy, but no excuse.

My Father spent 2 tours in the Philippines and spoke of the thievery being a real issue there.
The last Carbine I purchased in what I believe to be issued condition was Oct of 2025 that I need to study more. A Inland just over the 300,000 range. Stock and metal better than your 485,xxx cost me $3,600 here in Michigan. In that cost is about $400 added for extras. Yours as posted about $2700 here currently, more if the guy is filling a serial block. Nice Commercial carbines and Import marked rebuilds are selling for right around $1200-$1600 at our local gun shows, little more for the rarer makers. Carbines that are mostly original that had just rear sights, barrel bands and safeties upgraded are selling for just over $2,000 and up. These are 'Selling Prices' not asking prices. I've seen a increase in sales and selling prices at the last three show weekends I got out for. Also documented sales by friends/shop owners.

Appreciate you sharing this.

Charlie-P777
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Points: 334 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kro1970 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 30 2026 at 9:41am
Nice piece. I don't think the stock has been sanded. Looks totally un messed with. I would do a Kroil soak for a few days to clean it up. No steel wool just a toothbrush to clean off and stop any further corrosion.
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Points: 38 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Connor38 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 30 2026 at 11:28am
upon closer examination I think you may be right about the stock not being sanded. 
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Points: 41 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Finface Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 30 2026 at 1:12pm
What would a very, very light hand sanding with Super Fine 400 sandpaper - and I'm talking just a couple of passes with the sandpaper prior to application of newly purchased quality Raw Linseed Oil - actually do to the collectibility price of an otherwise in excellent shape "as manufactured" Inland Division rifle?
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I wouldn't do it. Just raw linseed oil on cheese cloth to clean it.
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Points: 41 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Finface Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 30 2026 at 1:27pm
I did it last month when I got the rifle.  First I cleaned the stock with Mineral Spirits - just wiped it down - and it didn't look dirty in the first place.  Then I applied the Raw Linseed Oil liberally.  The stock looks great and the original cartouche and other stamps I left alone - no sanding, but yes on the oil.  I don't plan on selling it any time soon, just curious.

Looking at the Datasheet I don't see an entry area for "never sanded", so a detail to be added (or not, in my case) on the second page.

Thx for the reply, kro1970, and if I'd known some collectors (all?) care about "never sanded" I wouldn't have done the little I did.
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Points: 1047 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt_X Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 30 2026 at 1:39pm
What has been removed can not be put back.

The loose rust has already detached so it can not be put back.
What to do about the tightly bonded surface rust is different matter.  Charlie has offered a reasonable solution especially for a the inside hidden surface of sheet metal.

One thing that is really helpful in this instance is a very clear pattern transfer to endgrain.

On the outer surface I'm not sure what might be the best way to stabilize it.
For me that would probably depend in part on the storage environment and intended use. 
It might also involve some testing on the hidden surfaces.
if you've ever watched a Kinsler Bros (sp?) video its possible to chemically or soda blast remove rust.  But if the metal is thin to begin with, could end up with damage from even the more gentle removal processes.   I've had valve covers soda blasted with great results - but that's for a car - and refinishing with fresh paint wasn't going to look out of place.

First I would see what others suggest.


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Kroil is a great product for neutralizing rust. It's a penetrating oil. I know the 1911 guys use it a lot. It's not cheap but it works great. I took a piece of PVC pipe and put a permanent cap on one end and a screw on cap on the other. Fill it with Kroil and you can soak a barreled receiver. Use a smaller container for the other parts. Soak for several days and periodically take it out and use a toothbrush to remove dirt and debris. Do not use steel wool or a brass brush you will put a polish on the parkerizing. After the soak use a good gun oil. Kroil is not a preservation oil.
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I like that idea. 
Kroil (Nano?) and Sili-Kroil are in my stock pile of rest penetrating and cleaning oils.  I've used it mostly on cars but also on machinery like rusted Jacob's chucks, and occassionally on dirty firearms.
It will help clean things up and then decide the next steps.  Best part is no permanent change.  Both parkerizing and 'blueing' are an oxide that helps trap a little layer of preserving oil.  Off the top of my head the only applied finish could be the top of the front sight, and the magazines. krpil would not lift either. 
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Points: 2352 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote painter777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 30 2026 at 4:39pm
I've used Kroil and Kerosene and seem to be equal results,
But I like Bronze Wool in 3/000 or 4/0000
After soaking and using the Wool wet with Solvent it's very important to wipe the slurry off often
with clean rags/patches as you go along to keep from scratching the finish surface. At that time I
also rinse or replace the Wool as I go. If you don't finish that day, lightly oil the metal down. Repeat
next day.....

Butt plates:
1 Some times just a high pressure water blast with no media will remove the rust, oil after.
2 Soda as a media AFAIK is the least abrasive.
3 Maybe consider just boiling or chemically stripping if needed.

Ch-P777
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OK….I am going to pick a fight here….I know it. IMHO, if anyone considered paying more than maybe $1,000 for this carbine they way overpaid. It is a rust-bucket that has been badly abused. Yes, it can be recovered but at what cost?

Fire away boys but the Emperor has no clothes.
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Well I don't how much rust  is there other than on the butt plate.  Clearly the barrel exterior shows old damage but from the photos I'm not seeing activity.  A little bit on the flip sight yes. 

As far as price, there's an Inland for sale on Smith-Wesson forum for $1200 and it hasn't moved.   It looks clean with a new replacement stock.   A lot of factors play into price.   I was willing to pay more for my first carbine in part because it had been looked over by a smith.  At the time that was worth extra for me.  Now it wouldn't be. 
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As the saying goes the value is what someone will actually pay for it. If I was considering buying it I would put a value on the individual parts based on the condition. Granted the parts that are pitted would be worth less than if they where in good condition. There are some valuable parts that are in good shape like the dogleg hammer and other internals. Not clear enough pictures to determine a value for the flip sight, barrel band, bolt swivel etc. Putting a value based only because it's original would not be accurate. Condition is the main factor in a collector grade carbine. In my opinion for whatever that's worth. An Inland in that serial number range in very good condition would be $2,000 to $2,500 range. In today's market probably closer to 2k. I know you will see them at gun shows priced higher but you seem to see them at every show because they are not selling at those prices. All things being equal an Inland will bring less money than any of the other manufacturers.
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Points: 9 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wade16 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 30 2026 at 10:25pm
I agree if all things being equal, the best condition is worth the most, but is a mixmaster in top condition worth more than an untouched original in lesser condition? Would you advise me to replace any part that has wear or light rust with NOS parts? Would the value increase if I replaced the stock with a arsenal rebuild stock in near new condition? I am one who prefers the been there done that look and the history that comes with it. I also love a mint condition carbine as a work of art.
Regards, Wade
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Originally posted by wade16 wade16 wrote:

I am one who prefers the been there done that look and the history that comes with it. I also love a mint condition carbine as a work of art.

If this is the case, clean this one up the best you can and leave it as is. Start searching for a "mint condition" carbine because this one will never be that. 

Originally posted by W5USMC W5USMC wrote:

Please fill out and submit a data sheet on this carbine, info linked below.
Wayne
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