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S’G’ Saginaw Grand Rapids 3.6M
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Prepper_Pig View Drop Down
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Joined: Jul 31 2022
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Points: 4 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Prepper_Pig Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: S’G’ Saginaw Grand Rapids 3.6M
    Posted: Jan 15 2026 at 2:34pm
Recently won an auction for a Grand Rapids produced S’G’ rifle and I’m wondering if it’s worth what I gave. Serial number is 3,620,xxx making it from the “2nd block” (completed before the first block or so I’ve read). October-November of 1943 production IIRC. Prices seem to be all over the place for Saginaw guns. Prior to this I only had Inland’s and commercial carbines. 

It does appear the barrel is import marked and it’s in what appears to be a South Korean marked stock. Overall condition appears NRA good or better with no pitting observed on the receiver—just a bit on barrel forward of the bayonet at the bottom of the barrel. Barrel seems to have more bluing loss than the receiver which seems to be common with the S’G’ rifles produced in and around this block.

Thanks in advance for the help.

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Edited by Prepper_Pig - Jan 15 2026 at 3:10pm
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Picture link does not work for me?
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Points: 4 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Prepper_Pig Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 15 2026 at 2:51pm
Originally posted by W5USMC W5USMC wrote:

Picture link does not work for me?

Let me play around with them for a minute to see if I can get the link to work.

*EDIT* New link inserted. LMK if it works for you or not. 
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The top link works for me now.
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Points: 297 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote thirtyround Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 16 2026 at 1:06am
"and I’m wondering if it’s worth what I gave"

I'm sure a bunch of us can answer that for you.... What did you give?

Cheers, JB
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Points: 297 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave T Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 16 2026 at 8:12am
I learned a long time ago that it’s better to spend the money and get something nice. Having a “shooter” is one thing but only factory original carbines are original. All others are restored or as they say “correct”. I hope you paid less than $1k.
Dave
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Points: 4 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Prepper_Pig Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 16 2026 at 10:16am
$880 + taxes and shipping = $1,037.xx
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Points: 1047 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt_X Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 16 2026 at 10:29am
That could be a fair price depending on location and what you were looking for.
Assuming you wanted an upgraded version with overseas service history, it looks fine.
I'd clean it, lubricate it, and see how it runs.
If you want to be a little more cautious, you could first check the headspace using a dummy round or fired brass, vernier caliper and some tape.  I think it was 'Floydthecat' who posted how to do this.
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Points: 4 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Prepper_Pig Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 16 2026 at 4:44pm
Originally posted by Matt_X Matt_X wrote:

That could be a fair price depending on location and what you were looking for.
Assuming you wanted an upgraded version with overseas service history, it looks fine.
I'd clean it, lubricate it, and see how it runs.
If you want to be a little more cautious, you could first check the headspace using a dummy round or fired brass, vernier caliper and some tape.  I think it was 'Floydthecat' who posted how to do this.


M1 carbines are pretty rare in my AO. I mainly just wanted something more unique than an Inland. My “shooters” are a commercial Fulton and an a commercial Inland in a Choate stock… 

I’ll definitely look up that headspacing hack since I don’t have any gauges. Thanks for that tip. I’ll probably never shoot this one more than a dozen times assuming it checks out okay. If it’s not worth more than what I gave for it I may send it off to have it refurbished and reparked. 
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Points: 2307 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote floydthecat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 16 2026 at 8:31pm
Guilty ….about a lot of things. All one needs is a cheap set of flat feeler gauges and a tool accurate enough to correctly measure a sized case (pull a bullet from a live round and you have a sized case).

Chamber and rotate the stripped bolt over the case and insert the correct feeler gauge that snugly fits between the rear of the right bolt lug and the receiver recess. Add the feeler gauge value to the measured case and….walla, you have measured head space. For instance. Using a case 1.285 in length and fitting .008 feeler as described above, your actual head space is 1.293.

Piece of cake and you will never need a set of head space gauges.
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Originally posted by floydthecat floydthecat wrote:

All one needs is a cheap set of flat feeler gauges and a tool accurate enough to correctly measure a sized case (pull a bullet from a live round and you have a sized case).

Chamber and rotate the stripped bolt over the case and insert the correct feeler gauge that snugly fits between the rear of the right bolt lug and the receiver recess. Add the feeler gauge value to the measured case and….walla, you have measured head space. For instance. Using a case 1.285 in length and fitting .008 feeler as described above, your actual head space is 1.293.

Sounds like you may need a bolt disassembly tool too?LOL 

Another option would be to spend $42 and buy the Forster Field gauge so you can check the headspace without stripping the bolt.
Forster Headspace Ga Field Length 30 Carbine
Wayne
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Points: 1047 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt_X Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 16 2026 at 10:20pm
I was actualy thinking of this method you posted some time ago.

You need to ascertain the "exact" length of ...from the rear of the case to the end of the case mouth. That dummy round should have a ridge on it where the case-mouth would contact the bottom of the chamber. Perfection would be 1.290, which is the go-gauge. Regardless....measure this distance. If it is shorter than 1.290, you can add pieces of scotch tape and build the base up to a point where it will not head-space (no-go). Most well-fired carbines I own/have owned no-go at 1.297. This sounds Bubba, but a razor-blade or a pin-knife will trim-off the excess tape and render a shim that matches the case rim.

IMO bolt tool is worthy item to have regardless.  A lot of times bolts haven't been cleaned in 40 years and are gummed up.  On the other hand I acknowledge its a little intimidating the first time using one.   If you're building up a shell or dummy of known length, I guess in theory to remove the extractor but I think I did it without.  When the bolt won't rotate closed, remove and remeasure the length.
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Points: 2307 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote floydthecat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 17 2026 at 7:39am
The feeler gauge method is just an option to the scotch tape method. I find using the feelers a bit easier.

Nothing al all wrong with having/using head space gauges but you can precisely measure head space by these other methods. If the action fails on a no-go of 1.295….you really don’t know how loose it is. Maybe it’s 1.296-1.297. The field gauge would tell you if it’s out-of-spec but that’s all.

To each his own, but I think most of us would agree that if one wants to maintain their carbine…..a bolt tool is a must if for nothing else but cleaning.
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