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Spare Parts to keep on hand?

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Rebel92 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Spare Parts to keep on hand?
    Posted: Oct 08 2021 at 5:28pm
howdy folks, 

Just would like some expert opinions on the spare parts I should keep around. I already have several extractors, but curious as to what others I should stock up on. I’m referring to backups for my shooter inland, which is already a mix master. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote floydthecat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 08 2021 at 6:02pm
Bolt guts like firing-pin, extractor spring and plunger (make those plural in case you lose them). Anything with springs probably needs a spare spring for everything on hand. A bolt as well maybe and pins….hammer, trigger and housing, anything you can likely lose at some point.

I’d just lay in the bushes and shop for small parts like this as they present themselves. Don’t get trapped into trying to correct it, shooters are shooters. Everybody has their own idea about a stash, but not much else is going to be problematic.

RELOAD OR BUY MORE AMMO!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 08 2021 at 6:09pm
thanks Floyd, I have several springs spare extractor/ejector springs and the plungers. I’ll add some more sear springs and stuff to my list. Pretty much all the springs. 

And would you recommend a round bolt for my shooter, or does it not make that much of a difference? And would I need to purchase a headspace gauge to check it out on a new bolt?

And what about another slide? 

I’ve caught the bug big time and def need to slow down. I’ll heed your advice and buy them when I see a good deal. Mine functions great, but wanna make sure I don’t get caught with my pants down. I have TONS of ammo for it and am currently accumulating the items needed to begin reloading 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 08 2021 at 6:15pm
So would you suggest a round bolt? Or does it not make a difference? And would I need to purchase a headspace gauge to test with a new bolt??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote W5USMC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 08 2021 at 6:28pm
A thread on the subject from MILSURPS 

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Rebel92 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 08 2021 at 6:33pm
okay awesome. Where can I find a headspace gauge that doesn’t cost my first born child? Or do I only need a go/no-go/field or all 3?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote W5USMC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 08 2021 at 6:51pm
Unless you are changing the barrel then I say all you need is the field gauge, and recommend a "Forster" brand gauge since you do not need to disassemble the bolt to use it. 
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Rebel92 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 08 2021 at 7:14pm
But what about changing out the bolt? Wouldn’t need a headspace gauge for that? Excuse my dumb questions, tryin to learn
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote floydthecat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 08 2021 at 7:35pm
Originally posted by Rebel92 Rebel92 wrote:

But what about changing out the bolt? Wouldn’t need a headspace gauge for that? Excuse my dumb questions, tryin to learn

Nope, don’t waste your money. A gauge only gives you the limits. You can exactly measure your head space with an empty sized case. See if the bolt closes and rotates on the case. Add strips of scotch tape one layer at a time trimming it neatly to match the base until you reach no-go. Measure this case with the tape attached and you have your true head space. Depending on who’s field gauge is discussed, out-of-spec. can be 1.299 to 1.302. If you are under that…...it passed the field gauge test.

In reality, SAAMI allows from 1.280 to 1.302. Thats .022 of slop. Many here will support the fact that the carbine will be perfectly ok with head space exceeding 1.302 and I’ve handled some that would rattle on a 1.302 gauge. I have handled commercials that routinely left the factory at as much as 1.310.

You can find head space threads all over the forums. Collectors condemn carbines that close on a field gauge, but they can have lots of life left, particularly if you reload and keep brass length on the longer side.

That is a whole ‘nuther discussion. 

Before I get too far and risk getting beat-up, always consider short head space to be more dangerous than long head space. One should always insure the bolt will rotate and lock at no less than 1.290 and most like from 1.292-1.295. You can use the same method for that too.


Edited by floydthecat - Oct 08 2021 at 7:52pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 08 2021 at 8:22pm
so all I’ll need is some empties, scotch tape, and a caliper?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (2) Thanks(2)   Quote W5USMC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 08 2021 at 8:45pm
Agree with floydthecat, although I would rather use the gauge. A Forster Field gauge measures 1.299 and a USGI Field gauge measure 1.302. In my earlier post I should have said there is no need for a Go gauge unless changing a barrel, for bolt swaps I only use a Field. 
Think I paid $32 for the Forster gauge from Midway. Paid much more for my USGI gauge when I finally found one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote bonnie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 08 2021 at 8:52pm
I cut a set of feeler gauges to use with the go headspace gauge. Cut each gauge to fit inside the bolt face, then placing the headspace gauge on top of that for a measurement. I cut each piece of gauge so the I could see what size it was, ie: .001 or .005, etc. Keep these pieces with the headspace gauge. I can get a pretty close measurement of the exact headspace of any particular carbine.

The thin gauges can be cut with scissors. The thicker ones I used tin snips then smoothed the edges.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 08 2021 at 8:53pm
I cannot find a field gauge anywhere. Let me know if y’all know where to look!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote W5USMC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 08 2021 at 8:58pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 08 2021 at 9:08pm
nice and cheap just the way I like it. Thanks. Any pros/cons about bolt type? (Flat vs round) I only have flat bolts so no experience with round 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote floydthecat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 09 2021 at 8:14am
The gauge is invaluable in a quick determination of a carbine action and I am not suggesting they are not worth the expense, but they won’t give you a completely accurate assessment. A Field gauge of 1.302 will tell you the action is no longer than 1.302, but it might be 1.301. Failure on a gauge of 1.299 Would dictate an out-of-spec. action, yet there is .003 more life left if you grab a gauge of 1.302. But….that’s the accepted manner of action evaluation.

It’s sort of all academic to me anyway. Nobody has yet produced evidence of a ruptured carbine case due to long head space. The case is fully supported 360-degrees. I have read about case ruptures that were later determined to be due to faulty ammunition, not the carbine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (3) Thanks(3)   Quote floydthecat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 09 2021 at 8:26am
Originally posted by Rebel92 Rebel92 wrote:

nice and cheap just the way I like it. Thanks. Any pros/cons about bolt type? (Flat vs round) I only have flat bolts so no experience with round 

The round bolt will contain all the updates/changes implemented during manufacture. The general rule-of-thumb is to use the latest issue (type) of any component to get the safest and most reliable version. But, parts interchange forward and backward. The only time I suspected a round bolt might have been superior to a flat bolt was the increase in size and shape of the chin on the round bolt. Maybe it will help feeding issues, but I can’t actually prove it. I did find a round bolt seems to have solved a problem once, but a fresher flat bolt might have worked just as well. I usually don’t prefer one over the other in a shooter. The price, fitment and condition dictates what I use.


Edited by floydthecat - Oct 09 2021 at 8:52am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 09 2021 at 10:13am
thanks Floyd. Can you tell me what a fair price for a stripped or even a complete bolt would be? I entered the carbine market during the pandemic so I don’t know what “reasonable” prices are. Thanks again for your wealth of knowledge. I ask lots of questions but pick up quickly 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 09 2021 at 10:17am
Is this USGI? Never purchased from them

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote floydthecat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 09 2021 at 10:48am
That is a commercial bolt. I would not consider it. When you see “new” used to describe a part, you can bet it’s commercial. The low price is also a red flag. 

Welcome to the world of figuring all this out! It never hurts to ask.

Some parts from Sarco will be ok such as pins, screws and some springs. 
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