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Repro jump stocks |
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1989LX 
On Point 
Joined: Jul 23 2019 Location: Gwinnett Co. GA Status: Offline Points: 123 |
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 Topic: Repro jump stocksPosted: Dec 04 2019 at 6:45pm |
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Apologies if this is the wrong section, but I am after a reproduction jump stock for shooting as I do not want to possibly risk screwing up an original in some way (and frankly because I cannot afford an original). Where would I have to go to find the best quality reproduction M1A1 stock? I literally know nothing about them.
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USGI magazines are like potato chips, you can't have just one!
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W5USMC
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Joined: Apr 29 2017 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 2865 |
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Posted: Dec 04 2019 at 6:53pm |
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No idea as far as the quality but here is one at northridge.
https://www.northridgeinc.com/product-p/m1a1.htm |
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Wayne
USMC Retired NRA Life Member |
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New2brass
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Dan Pinto, Photo Editor Joined: Nov 29 2015 Location: CT Status: Offline Points: 4503 |
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Posted: Dec 04 2019 at 6:58pm |
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I got a email from Numrich (gunpartscorp.com). they had them for 159.
They also have ones locked open for certain states requirements
as to best quality I do not know who or where. It seems the biggest complaint is that they may fold while shooting due to lack of locking open
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bonnie
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Joined: Aug 28 2016 Location: N.C. Status: Offline Points: 89 |
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Posted: Dec 04 2019 at 8:04pm |
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I got one years ago from Numrich.
It is an Italian made, high wood walnut stock. Looks and fits good, and locks up properly. I like it. The handguard that came with it was way to fancy burled walnut. Replaced it with a plain USGI walnut handguard that matches the stock well. Maybe contact Numrich and ask if theirs' are still Italian made before buying. |
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Quietus
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Joined: Aug 10 2019 Location: north Wyoming Status: Offline Points: 63 |
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Posted: Dec 05 2019 at 7:10am |
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I bought a M1A1 folder from Numrich this past summer. Receiver and handguard fit were pretty good, not much work required. The wood was nice enough to look at but maybe a bit too smooth.
There had been no attempt to inlet the outside of the wood in order to accommodate the cheekpiece in its folded position, thus no detent lockup there. It took some time to inlet that area along the originals' lines, probably took out 1/8" of wood in that area. That folding position now has spring detent. I'd wanted one of these for a long time. It met expectations as a shooting platform: poor, a small amount of wiggle at the hinge translates to mich wiggle at the buttplate. Still, that stock has utility for storage and transport. And a person can get used to shooting off of it. |
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GotSnlB28
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Joined: Jan 01 2016 Location: WI Status: Offline Points: 856 |
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Posted: Dec 05 2019 at 9:31am |
Not to derail the thread here, but I'm interested in how you performed the wood inlet and the measurements. I have a nice highwood repro that I would like to do that on but I don't want to mess it up in the process. I have decent woodworking skills but some guidance would be great. |
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bonnie
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Posted: Dec 05 2019 at 9:33am |
As Quietus mentioned on inletting the stock I did the same thing to my mine. Cheek piece fits much better in the folding position now. The original factory inletting was too shallow for the cheek piece. |
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bonnie
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Posted: Dec 05 2019 at 10:10am |
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GotSnlB28,
How I did mine. I pulled up several pictures of original M1A1 stocks to compare to the factory inletting on my repro. Penciled in on my stock where the inletting had to be done and used an electric hand sander with 220 grit paper to do the inletting. Kept comparing my inletting to the original M1A1 pictures until I was satisfied and the folded cheek piece fit properly. Used Birchwood Casey walnut water stain and pure Tung Oil to finish. Blended right in with the factory color and finish. |
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Quietus
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Posted: Dec 05 2019 at 10:33am |
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GotSnlB28, you were wanting some guidance on cheekpiece inletting. No expert here, but here goes.
First thing is to establish the front and rear angles and pencil them in lightly. Front and rear angles are different. I looked at good left-side pics of complete original-stocked rifles, then established top and bottom reference points for each cut, by eye. (Look and ask, where do those lines start and end, with respect to the gun's other features?). Then draw your lines. I started with a 2-cut narrow pillar file (sides are blank), on edge, to strike off the inside of the lines. This helps to prevent other tools' slippage or over-travel. Then enlarged the inside of these cuts with a 0-cut half-round file. From those shallow half-troughs, I did the initial work inside of them with the finer side of a horseshoer's rasp, its width is helpful in maintaining trueness as wood is removed. Once close, I switched to a wide sanding block with various grits of paper. Go easy with the half-round and the rasp in order to avoid tool marks. Do a bunch of test fits. On my stock, the area of the front of the pad (rear of the cut) was the contact area. As you work, maintain parallelism top and bottom with the factory wood lines (uniform reveal of the receiver and TG housing.) As received, stock and HG were dry. I blended in Fiebing's dark brown leather dye on the entire stock, then used RLO.
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1989LX
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Joined: Jul 23 2019 Location: Gwinnett Co. GA Status: Offline Points: 123 |
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Posted: Dec 05 2019 at 12:44pm |
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Thank you all! After seeing the complaints about the lack of an inletted area on most (which is no bueno in my book personally), I found this offering from Inland Mfg. I know that their carbines, well some at least are not the best quality weapons in the world, however this is just a stock. And I am fairly sure this offering does not have the M2 selector cutout like most seem to sport, which is something I personally can do without. What do you all think?
https://www.inland-mfg.com/folding_stock_handguard_combo.html |
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USGI magazines are like potato chips, you can't have just one!
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bonnie
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Posted: Dec 05 2019 at 3:22pm |
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A lot of money and probable for the same stock being sold else where for much less.
I don't know where Inland sources their M1A1 stocks but there can't be but one or two places world wide that even make them. Italy is one place I do know and I understand that some repros have recently been imported from Asia(?) with a lighter colored wood. I don't believe the shallow inletting is a deal breaker with these stocks. Friends that I shoot with have these stocks and they are happy with them. Mine worked just fine for years before I decided to make it more better. I'm retired and like to piddle with stuff like this at my bench. I even replaced the leather cheek piece on mine with darker leather just to see if I could. Besides Numrich, other sellers are Gunbroker, Fulton Armory, Sarco, and Northridge International would be worth checking with. |
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GotSnlB28
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Joined: Jan 01 2016 Location: WI Status: Offline Points: 856 |
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Posted: Dec 05 2019 at 11:34pm |
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bonnie & Quietus - thanks for the inletting tips! I'm going to work on it as a winter project.
Few years ago I bought a low wood repro that had a real nice used look to it, already had the wood inletting. But I did the leather dye and replaced the bad looking rivets with 7/4 brake shoe rivets. https://imgur.com/a/dPllE |
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bonnie
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Posted: Dec 06 2019 at 9:10am |
Nice work on the leather! Very good looking stock. |
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Quietus
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Joined: Aug 10 2019 Location: north Wyoming Status: Offline Points: 63 |
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Posted: Dec 07 2019 at 1:04pm |
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I know that this is primarily a collector's forum. I'm grateful for the discussions here and for the main site's research. I've learned much in half a year here. This site's contributors seem just a bit more laid back than what I see on the CMP site, dunno.
That said, I know there's people here who shoot carbines with para stocks. Once cheekpiece inletting issues are dealt with on the repros, there likely remains the issue for many of them, of poor "non-lockup" in the stock's extended position. I compare the M1A1 stock to a very well-used commie underfolder AKM, which is noted for its instability as its round count affects its actual locking ability. Since M1A1 stocks never really lock, this platform is behind from the get go. There's a fix for the instability/wobble of any M1A1 stock that is not a permanent mod. A small strip or two of bag grade leather, can be inserted into the bottom wire channel of the stock's pistol grip. I cut the leather just slightly larger in width than the channel, in order for it to stay in place as the wire deforms it. The leather strip is about a quarter inch wide and an inch long. The goal, is to put in just enough thickness of leather that the extending of the stock goes to the spring detent position and not much past that. Its effect, is to prevent movement of the stock past its spring detent, thus reducing wobble while shooting the gun. The leather shimming does a decent job of this. It's still not as good of a platform to shoot off of, than say, a commie AK sidefolder. But the leather shim is a help.
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Quietus wrote: