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Removing Heat From Under Handguard

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Ricci1165 View Drop Down
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    Posted: Jun 28 2020 at 3:05pm
Hell folks,

I took my AO out for another range session in this high humidity Florida heat and ran a good 250 rounds.....carbine performed flawlessly after my previous post of mods I performed. Upon inspection on my work bench during my maintenance and cleaning inspection, I noticed a "sooty black" burnt area under the hand guard. It removed easily enough but got me thinking of ways to remove that heat from sustained firing. I have tried a steel ventilated hand guard from Ulitimak, but I couldn't make it fit even with dremeling. ( The weld lost integrity) This carbine runs like a "AK" and I'd like to get that heat away.....what are some suggestions? Thank you.
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painter777 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote painter777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun 28 2020 at 3:27pm
All I can come up with is not to have so many mags already loaded up.
That way while your loading up more, you can lock your action open for a bit of cool down time.

Don't lean it against your rubber/plastic front bumper like a friend did on his Wife's ride. 

Good Luck,
CH-P777
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Ricci1165 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ricci1165 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun 28 2020 at 3:33pm
I lock the action open between mag changes, but I enjoy running this AO! 
I thought about purchasing another wooden hand guard and drilling 1/4" holes evenly spaced on each side to dissipate the heat.....figure 4 holes to allow wood integrity. 

Thank you for your reply! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote New2brass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun 28 2020 at 3:38pm
There are commercial steel ventilated handguards on the market, If a USGI HG fits so should one of these.

try Sarco or gunpartscorp (Numrich)

Google search:



Not an endorsement for anyone, just what I found
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03manV View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 03manV Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun 28 2020 at 4:13pm
Some commercial carbines used handguards, longer or shorter than GI,
sounds like you had one of these.
Another might just work.

You might reduce the "leakage" by replacing your old with a new gas piston and/or nut
Don
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Ricci1165 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ricci1165 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun 28 2020 at 5:04pm
Thanks fellas....this beater AO only has about 700 rounds through so the gas piston and castle nut should be good to go and it is properly staked/peened.

I'm out $23.00 with the Ultimak vented hand guard so I'm not sure if I'm going to risk another expense on a hand guard unless I order one from AO and drill my holes as stated above.

I also thought since AO uses Boyds furniture which happens to run "thick", that's where the concern is.




Tommy


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03manV View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 03manV Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun 28 2020 at 5:15pm
Tommy,
I understand now- your "beater" AO is one of the "new" AO carbines! Embarrassed

Only 700 rounds, but that does not mean the piston fits the nut well !
If it really bothers you, I'd replace both with GI parts. JMHO.
Don
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painter777 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote painter777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun 28 2020 at 5:17pm
Just a after thought...
But if you still wanted the look and feel of a wood hand guard, Maybe the Oval cut out on a late Type III 4 rivets used on the M3 for the scope mounting bar would let the heat out enough for you and not have to deal with a hot metal HG ?

I see what may or may not be a original on Ebay for $44, but you could cut out your own.
I don't care for the seller but here is a picture of it:




CH-P777
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote W5USMC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun 28 2020 at 5:27pm
Originally posted by painter777 painter777 wrote:

Maybe the Oval cut out on a late Type III 4 rivets used on the M3 for the scope mounting bar would let the heat out enough for you and not have to deal with a hot metal HG ?
I see what may or may not be a original on Ebay for $44, but you could cut out your own.

Numrich also sells these for $29.50

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/579110A
Wayne
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Ricci1165 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ricci1165 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun 28 2020 at 5:34pm
That M3 style may just be the ticket and replacing the gas piston and nut with USGI. I did replace the extractor with a USGI and it dropped in perfectly. The AO NT plated extractor just didn't suit me well....
You guys are great!


Tommy
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painter777 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote painter777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun 28 2020 at 5:42pm
Tommy,
If you want to try cutting one yourself.....
I have quite a few post WWII 4 rivets hand guards.
I'd send you one for the price of shipping USPS small flat rate priority box.
I think about $8 - ~$10.00

PM me and let me know if interested and your address.

Charlie-P777
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote floydthecat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun 28 2020 at 6:32pm
I am not in luv with these, but it's what came with the stainless steel Iver Johnson carbines and I am not motivated to replace it yet. Iver Johnson still offers these stainless steel guards on the their website for $17.00. They do run a tad longer than stock GI guards. One would never be that much concerned about rust, like they would on the blued steel version. Might get strange looks at the range, but it's an option.



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