Safety/ Accuracy/Shooting/Ammunition/Care and Maintenance

https://imgur.com/gallery/yySd2fO" rel="nofollow - https://imgur.com/gallery/yySd2fO

https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=73917" rel="nofollow - Help with a family M1 carbine (milsurps.com)

check you have the trigger spring in correctly, it looks like the triggers is not reset.

if not take out the trigger sear and sear spring. Assemble out of the housing. Check the sear function. the sear should push back as well as pivot

I made my pin from a cut down finish nail.

"Trigger and sear/spring. Make a small pin the width of the trigger. Assemble the trigger sear and spring outside the housing using the shorter pin. Drop it in the housing, line up the hole and push the normal pin into place. Done deal, a minute or two and no jammed fingers."

Video link to fellow member Norowich93cmp Youtube videos. See his full playlist for many M1 Carbine 'How To'

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1izVaSwW4nI&list=PLfLKBFGQhTSk_qlQUQAY84WrZKeowzkzp&index=10" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1izVaSwW4nI&list=PLfLKBFGQhTSk_qlQUQAY84WrZKeowzkzp&index=10

Is it because the spring coil is bent ?

You could try bending it back in place, install and see it hammer cocks.

But order a new one.

Ebay or Gunbroker will have them.

Could even run a WTB here on the Forum.

Sears are pretty durable. Unless you see some physical damage or wear probably not. You can post some pictures for opinions.

If it is a simple as that I will be so happy

https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=17368" rel="nofollow - https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=17368

I took the two hammers and compared as you see in the pic below the front hammer my original doesn’t have the groove that the sear sits in, it’s worn down.

Next question is should I order a backup hammer to keep for spare parts eBay has a Winchester NOS which would keep my rifle all correct. I will be shooting this gun, won’t be a ton but also want to avaoid not having a part if I need it

I don't know that you need a spare hammer around, but it won't hurt. Sarco has pretty fait prices on genuine GI parts.

The rear is a Winchester.

The sear does not sit in a groove. The nose of the sear hits the flat or ledge that both hammers have.

Look at the last animation on this page

http://www.uscarbinecal30.com/operation.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.uscarbinecal30.com/operation.html

The rear is a Winchester.

The sear does not sit in a groove. The nose of the sear hits the flat or ledge that both hammers have.

Look at the last animation on this page

http://www.uscarbinecal30.com/operation.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.uscarbinecal30.com/operation.html

That is impressive how can you tell that from a fuzzy picture

What caused the front hammer not to cock. The only difference I see is that ledge is more pronounced, does that cause the sear to make a better connection? What else could be wrong with it then. I would just like to know for my own knowledge

*Trigger Spring might have needed a little fussing around with to spread proper tension on the rear of the Trigger*

*Hole in the Hammer may have been wobbled out and moving about with the pin installed.*

Sometimes it's a just a single issue, sometimes it can be how 2 or 3 items need a little tweaking.

Gotta expect a issue now and then with a 75+ year old weapon.

Hammer Pin installed from Left to Right?

Grease/Lube:

I like to put a dab of grease in the Sear and Hammer pin holes.

Light film of oil on top of the Trigger Pedestal where the Sear glides over it.

History now, Glad you got her ready to run... Thumbs Up

Just double check that the safety and trigger are working.

Let us know how it shoots,

Congrats,

Ch-P777

there is a possibility that the front hammer someone messed with trying to improve the trigger pull. The rear hammer appears to have some work in that area.

Are you sure the rear one was not giving you the trouble? Does the sear have any metal in the white that looks like honing or fitting?

One suggestion if you want to trouble shoot the problem would be to find a good hardware store that has dowel pins the same diameter of the hammer and trigger pins and are at least twice as long.

You would put the pins through the trigger housing and assemble the parts on the pins outside of the trigger housing. From there you can manipulate the hammer and trigger to figure what is going on.

I would do this on both sides of the trigger housing on the outside chance the trigger housing holes are off. the longer pins will multiply the error and may be easier to figure out.

Pictures of the old sear if you all would like to see

Pictures- That little flower symbol / Macro setting on your camera will shows details you can't see with the naked eye.

Maybe the OP got lucky,

If that hammer was setting, but intermittently...... could it be a possibility it could have run 'Fast'

AKA FA ?

Best for the OP to test for safety. I've copied / pasted this from our fellow site. Please read thru and follow the steps to test. Included is a link you should Bookmark.

http://www.90thidpg.us/Reference/Manuals/TM9-1276_1947.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://www.90thidpg.us/Reference/Man...-1276_1947.pdf

Paragraph 11 Page 12-13 (6) (7) (2)

(6) Engagement of sear with hammer. The sear should engage with
sear notch in hammer when bolt is about halfway retracted. A crisp
click may be heard as sear slides forward into the sear notch in hammer
under force of sear spring. Retract the bolt fully to insure complete
engagement and retention of sear. If click is not heard or trigger pull
appears to be light or excessively heavy, examine sear and sear notch
in hammer for wear, burs, foreign matter in sear notch, or weak or
broken sear spring. Trigger pull should not be under 5 pounds or over
7 pounds.
(7) Engagement of sear when trigger is not released. The sear should
engage and hold the hammer when the trigger is held back and the
slide operated rapidly. Test by grasping the carbine by the grip of the
stock with the left hand with index finger on the trigger. Pull the
trigger all the way to the rear and hold in that position. Grasp the
operating slide handle with the right hand and move the bolt back and
forth rapidly five or six times. Release the operating slide handle in the
forward position, release the trigger, allowing it to move fully forward,
and then pull it again. If the hammer does not fall, it has jarred out of
engagement with the sear and followed the bolt forward. If this is the
case, the carbine may fire full automatic and the firing mechanism should
be inspected for worn or faulty parts.
(2) Trigger. Trigger should move forward under force of trigger
spring when released from rearward position. If trigger does not move
forward positively, trigger spring may be broken, disengaged, or bent.
Trigger hang is also caused by old type triggers with the 4° angle on
the forward face of the pedestal. Test trigger pull as explained in paragraph 13.
TESTING TRIGGER PULL is on page 15-16, reading in part:
a. GENERAL. (1) Test trigger pull for smoothness and for
pressure exerted. Trigger pull should be clean, without creep, smooth
in action; and the force exerted to release hammer should be more
than 5 pounds and less than 7 pounds (See b below.) If pull is rough,
or not within specified limits, or creep is present, it indicates that there
is wear or burs on sear nose, hammer notch, or top of trigger lip, or interference between trigger and housing.
Read All of Inspection Paragraph 31, Starting on page 43....

33. Maintenance and Repair Page 49
b. HAMMER FAILS TO COCK. This condition may be due to damaged
sear, broken sear spring, burs or foreign matter in sear notch in hammer, or failure of bolt to move far enough to the rear on recoil movement to cock hammer. Examine parts; clean and replace if necessary.
c. STONING NOSE OF SEAR. If sear nose or hammer notch becomes
burred or unevenly worn, preventing proper seating of nose of sear in
notch, the burs may be removed in an emergency, and uneven surface
leveled with a fine grained sharpening stone. Stone surface to a polish
only, being careful to maintain angle of face. Stoning should be done
only by trained ordnance personnel. If possible, parts should be replaced by selective assembly.
d. CORRECTING TRIGGER PULL. (1) A light or heavy trigger pull
may be caused by foreign matter or burs in the sear notch in the hammer, on the nose of the sear, on the top of rear end lip of trigger where
the rear end of sear rests, or in the elongated pivot hole in the sear.
Such burs or foreign matter will prevent nose of the sear from seating
fully in hammer notch. To correct, remove foreign matter or stone
burred surfaces to a polish, using a fine grained sharpening stone,
taking care to maintain surfaces, angle, and sharp edges. Replace
badly burred or damaged parts. Stoning should be done only by trained
ordnance personnel.
(2) A light pull may also be due to a weak or broken sear spring
which will not seat the sear fully in the hammer notch before the
pressure from hammer spring is applied to the nose of sear through the
hammer. Correct by removing foreign matter or replace sear spring.
(3) Uneven surface of hammer notch or worn nose of sear may also
cause a light pull. Correct by stoning surfaces evenly, being careful to
maintain angles and sharp corners of faces stoned.
34. Functional Check Page 50-51
a. Cock hammer and check seating and positive retention to limit of sear nose in hammer notch. Continue to retract hammer of rearward
movement and observe forward movement of sear to maintain retention. Sear should continue to contact hammer throughout movement.
Pull trigger; sear should release hammer crisply. Trigger pull should
he from 5 to 7 pounds. Release trigger. It should move positively to
forward position under force of trigger spring and be held there firmly
and without shake even when sear is not assembled. When trigger is in
forward position and hammer cocked, the sear should rest upon or
above top of rear pedestal of trigger.

**These are the Highlights.... More Info between the lines in the Link.**

Also like to add how impressed with how you carried yourself.

You asked, pondered replies and IMO, thought out your plan and took it step by step.

Now finish up the safety testing. After knowing you have everything Ironed out......

Let us know how she shoots. I may have missed it, but if I haven't Start a new post and introduce your WRA to us. We do love pictures.

Again Congrats,

Charlie-P777

I was given a sear once that the hole was not formed correctly.

Longshot, but nice to know for sure what the problem was

But I believe Wayne put it best:

"There was just enough wear between the old sear and the old hammer that they were no longer compatible"