Should i try to put some wood glue on it on the inside of the stock?

Would that help to strengthen the area?

Or just leave it and hope for the best

Im hoping eventually to find a nicer ibm high wood stock and replace mine

If i can ever find one.

I dont plan on selling the rifle (knock on wood that i dont ever have to)

Thanks for any help

If it is a really clean and tight closed crack adding some thin acrylate cement (brand like Crazy glue) is a possibility.

If the crack is bad or missing wood, epoxy is the way to go; along with repair pins- but pins take really careful installation.

Better yet, buy a shooter stock and take the high wood off if you plan to shoot it.

From a conservators point of view the ideal adhesive will be reversible and weaker than the wood.

The goal for conservation is to stablize the crack against further weakening or loss.  The choices for a museum piece that will never or rarely be handled and used are easier than for an item that will be carried in the field and used often.

Epoxies can be made relatively flexible and be thinned somewhat for application, but this doesn't change the fact that once applied they are not removable.  Generally they are stronger than the wood and if there is a failure it will take wood fibers with it.

If you are going to use an epoxy I'm going to suggest using one that will soak into the grain enough to bond deeper than the surface.

A reversible product that is fairly strong is hide glue.  That's not practical for most people to invest in.  However there are premade hide glues available in bottles.  The bottle is warmed in a pot of hot water before use.  I've used it on furniture and would probably be my first preference on a stock crack like the one you describe.  Dan's suggestion is good, and or might be possible to apply it with a syringe. 

 

Pictures of the Crack will help to decide which fix method to use.

Be prepared for many opinions. More than 1 way to skin a cat.

Here are some photos.

The stock is in such rough shape, rough

100% worse than the rockola i have.  But o well, gun parts are all original that i can determine and thats fine with me.

Beat, dents all throughout cant find any marks, looks like it has a burn mark, make a cig burn, lol

Im hoping someone may have a high wood ibm to sell me someday

If yall find a pretty good one, can yall let me know?

I surely appreciate it

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Ill try that. I have a modeling syringe for glue. 

Haven't had good results with Super Glue type adhesives. Apply a little pressure to the repaired high wood area and it cracks again in the same spot. Not very good except for display pieces. All my repairs were cleaned repeatedly with acetone. One stock had a repair behind the recoil with SG. First outing shooting it the glue let loose right in the crack.

Frank D said he's used it and recommended it, but it didn't work well for me.

Use it to repair gouges in guitar clear coating finishes.

While wasting time trying to shim in a wood spacer one day I noticed my mini cutter and tried it.

I Use it turned up side down with the flat side against the piece that needs the outward push.

Being up side down the cranking wheel will set above the right wood rail.

Filling Splits and Grain Checks,

I've been using a Polyester Resin that I tint with Acrylic Pigment to match between the stocks darkest and lightest grain color.... Shooting for the middle. If you use Polyester resin without some type of tinting it will dry to a Glossy sheen. Using Acrylic pigment will reduce the sheen down to more of a Matte look. Polyester because it seeps in better than Epoxy resin.

Wax paper taped over the crack will limit any mess. You just Inject thru the tape.

For Tints, You can use something as simple as water color kids paints, to Latex Acrylic house paint, even food coloring, or regular paint tints. You may want to intermix a couple tints to get the hue you want. Either Resin will take just a bit of Tint... it goes a long way. Best to make up a small portion and test your mixed tint and Resin on a scrap to see if you've got the color you want. Copy or adjust as needed.

For Bonding Strength,

Use a Epoxy Resin, it can also be tinted. But it is a thicker resin.

For either Resin I can use (when needed) hypodermic needles. I don't recall the size but the smaller sizes for Polyester, larger for Epoxy resin. I use Lacquer thinner and draw it up and out of the needle several times and finish up by using fresh Lacquer thinner for the final clean out. I can get 3-4 uses out of the syringe before the Plunger rots away from the resins/thinners.  

You got a pic of that in practice?

A retailer with a good selection of glues, tints and dyes is Highland Hardware Woodworking in Ga.

Pretty sure thats where I bought the "Old Brown Glue" mentioned above. They also have resin glues and much more.

The liquid epoxies I use (US Composites - similar to West system) are thinned with alcohol or acetone.  Very little is needed to thin them.  The slower setting hardners are thinner to begin with and result in a little more flexible but slightly weaker product when set.  Whatever is being used, its good to check with the manufacturer for guidance when not sure of the thinner or cleanup.

It is greatly appreciated

@Ten,

No I don't.

Just flip the tool upside down and stick it inside the stock with the knob above the wood rail and the flat edge (now below the knob) of the tool against the wood. Twist the knob to spread it open, this puts pressure against the inside of the stock. When finished just back it off.

I started looking for a nut and bolt that would just fit inside, thinking I'd back the nut off enough to push against the side I needed pressure on when I seen the Mini Cutter in the tool box. It really works.

Wait....... You messing with me ?

Am I gonna have to call Dog Pee Lady to hit your yard ornaments again ?

Gonna have to dink around with tubing cutter. Think I'm getting the image.

You remember Dog Pee Woman?  That's funny. I keep an eye on her when she comes down the road. She's pretty adept at quickly placing the plastic grocery bag under her dog's rear end before he makes a deposit. That Juniper he lifted his leg on is about dead from a fungus these days.

How it's supposed to look below. Imagine it mostly brown now.

On a carbine note, the compensator/muzzle brake, as listed on Numrich, worked pretty well. I'd give it a 7 out of 10, for effectiveness and value.

1 third note. I knew a Charlie Painter (SSGT USMC) when I was at NATTC Memphis/Pensacola. Could that be you?

I prepared a test piece for the demonstration, I broke it in half in front of the doubting eyes, had it initialed , took it back to my workbench and glued it together with the afore mentioned glue, gave it time to harden, took it back to  the doubting Thomas and broke it again as close to the original brake as possible. The repair held and it broke nearby.

On another note, oftentimes "C" clamps won't work. I use t hose rubber strips the nurses use when drawing blood. Also wipe a little paste wax on the surrounding surfaces being careful not to allow it on the gluing surfaces. Makes cleaning up easer. 

I love working with wood.    

Bees wax work?

I have a small round block of it, photo below

I bought a few months back for some old furniture i have

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