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My M3 - New Member Too

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Joined: Aug 15 2019
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    Posted: Aug 16 2019 at 9:22am
Greetings Folks,

New member here. I picked up this M3 Sniperscope a little bit ago for $100 shipped on Facebook Marketplace. It isn't the prettiest as its missing data plates and the batteries and the case and there's some stuff broken in the power pack, but hey, it seemed like a good investment and something neat to tinker around with that wasn't a tube radio. I'll probably be looking for spare parts for it (like those fuse holder rigs on the power pack, tubes, open top glass tube insulator) but it'll prolly take me a bit to get it back to snuff. Anyways, I couldn't upload my pictures on here so here's a link to a google photos album of it.


Very Respectfully,
Shoreleave
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote W5USMC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug 16 2019 at 9:47am
Welcome to the forum. I think that you may have got a pretty good deal there despite the missing and broken items.
Wayne
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shoreleave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug 16 2019 at 10:02am
Reading through some of the posts listing what some of the parts sell for, I'm tending to agree with you. Had no clue what it was worth when I bought it. Still dont really, other than more than $100.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote New2brass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug 16 2019 at 10:05am
looks like you got your power pack open! 
For the benefit of others, most important thing is to remove power cables from the power supply.
Sometimes the screws bind in place, too much pressure may snap off the heads.
Once the screws are loose you need to lift the cover straight up.
The cover on the high voltage connector has a tube that goes inside a high voltage tower to the power supply. The plastic is usually brittle from age. If you do not lift the cover straight up you may break the HV tower or worse the tube base.

Power pack looks better than most I have seen.
Before you attempt to tinker please realize that the voltages are enough to kill!

I can fill you in on the most common things to check first before you attempt to power up.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shoreleave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug 16 2019 at 10:11am
Yeah, I went nice and slow. Noticed the screws didn't back out all the way from the lid, so just unscrewed them by hand until they were loose and lifted the lid nice and slow. Found the two fuse holders were toast and the tube and tube insulator I pictured were broke. Luckily it looks like the insulator is broke at the base so I might be able to find some high temp glue to reattach it. The tube I'll just need to pop out and find a replacement. I'm definitely all ears for getting the power pack back up to tip top shape so if you got pointers, please feel free to shoot me an email. I'll PM it to ya. 

20k volts is definitely a good bit to be working with. Last thing you need is a short going to the power pack case when powered up and ZAP.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sleeplessnashadow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug 16 2019 at 10:57am
Welcome aboard, Shoreleave

Your M3 Sniperscope body is a Capehart-Farnsworth product. They had one contract in 1951. Your Eye piece is also Capehart-Farnsworth. The rubber eyecup was made by American Optical. The other manufacturer of M3 Sniperscopes. Parts are interchangeable so not uncommon to find a mix.

Light Assembly is obviously American Optical ID'd by its name tag. As is the IR filter covering the light. Nice you got the GE 1077 bulb with it. Those are extremely rare and almost impossible to find.

Take a close look at the high voltage box on the left side of the scope and you'll see an oval with the letters IMP. It's also Capehart-Farnsworth.

Your power cable is Capehart-Farnsworth. Those used by American Optical have the name Amphenol on the T where the 6 volt power splits into two cables. Confirming it is the marking on the cable BNC connector that fits onto the power pack that has the letters CBSN. They should be proceeded by the mfg name, DAGE as opposed to Amphenol.

Amphenol place a part number on their BNC connectors. All power packs were mfg by Oak Mfg in Chicago. They used Amphenol BNC's. The BNC's sticking up out of your power supply, the high voltage one should have the numbers 31-836, the 6volt one 31-102. The dust caps that cover them are 31-837.

I'll let someone else chime in on your power pack. Just don't try to power it up. I'll also let someone fill you in on how to reshape the rubber eye cup using your oven.

The cross bolt (Eccesntric) that secures the light assembly to the scope is non-standard. Would like to see a pic of it removed from the scope. Loosen the little set screw behind it but careful not to lose it. Take the wing nut off. You may have to remove the other end with a standard screwdriver.

For a $100 you got one heck of a deal. The 1077 bulb alone is worth that much. On the other hand it will take some work to restore it to a whole. There are folks here that can help guide you.

Strongly recommend you get a copy of the following technical manuals:

TM 5-9342 Operators Manual
TM 5-9342A Maintenance & Repair
TM 5-1090-202-25P Parts identification (5-9342A also has a list of parts but the descriptions are much better in this one)

All for now. I'm off to bed ....

Jim
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