LOTS of problems with a Winchester..1st range trip

http://thecmp.org/wp-content/uploads/CMP_Carbine_Notes_2007.pdf

Paragraphs (4)-(4c4) of the above article, Carbine Shooting with Accuracy from the CMP, describes how to get proper recoil plate/receiver fit. The way it is explained in the article somewhat contradicts what is written in some of the posts above.

Also in the picture you posted of the slide after you chalked the stock makes it look like the slide is hitting the stock mostly on the right front side? Are your barrel/receiver index marks aligned? Are the flats level?

Is the CMP 1/8 inch "spec" for barrel "float" as shot or does this 1/8" represent elevation of the barrel PRIOR to seating of the action into the stock???

Why might there be a difference? (it's the tab)

I note that the handguard does NOT compress the barrel into the stock, at least not after banging the buttstock into the rug or firing a few shots. If you subseequently remove the barrel band/hanguard, the barrel does NOT spring 1/8" up. At least mine doesn't, does your's???

A picture speaks volumes.
You need a recoil plate.
Pm me your address, think i have a better one on the bench.

Blackfish, the CMP pdf stated 1/8
I think the TMs either say some lift or specify a ammount..
Will check in morning. I would think that the barrel should spring up after seating, but will confirm tomorrow.

Hmm last pic caught my eye!
Anyone want to play?
Look at data sheet and ccnl 336.
Anything out of place?

The dimensioned drawings I have suggest that in that region of a (potbelly) stock, the wood has, ignoring tolerances, an outside width of 1.8" and a well width of 1.2", meaning the side wall thickness should be about 0.3"

I would wait for a good recoil plate before making permanent changes to your stock.

LMTmonoMan 

Here is some more accuracy info that I've collected so far fwiw....Normally I do three groups of ten rounds when testing any modern day rifle with magnified optics, but my technique & perhaps eyes aren't repeatable enough for more than 5rds at a time. With practice I hope to change this. I was quite surprised how hard it is to shoot a group at 100yds with irons.

Monarch vs USGI ammo....50yd/100yd

Also compares back to back range trip 50yd groups w both types of ammo.



Some personal observations, the USGI 100yd group made me smile ear to ear. If I can repeat that over and over again with USGI ammo, I'll be tickled pink.

Secondly, it's amazing how much more accuracte 40+ year old USGI lake city ammo is over currently produced quality brass commerical ammo like Monarch. Sadly it's just to pricey for myself to aquire much of at a time, therefore I think I'm gonna settle on Monarch as the primary ammo for the rifle.

If the OP's recoil plate is cast, then it's a RIA and the tab is only ~ 7/16" wide. Most others are ~ 1/2" wide. So don't replace it with another RIA recoil plate. The Data Sheet in first post noted "W" for Winchester so I was surprised to see it so narrow in the picture that was later posted.

Also, the dimension of the receiver opening in the stock should be 1.23" max. It should be a pretty snug fit with the receiver and center the barrel properly even with a loose recoil plate.

Jack, according to your measurement, mine is indeed quite out of spec....



Another measurement a few inches forward right before the stock bridge was 1.2485"

Well... I see this small problem is going sideways....and up and down...
:-)
First off...the M1 Carbine was not built to be a MATCH rifle. They are fairly accurate...fairly....UNLESS...properly bedded and barrel tensioned to the stock front band area..
This problem that the WINCHESTER is having..is super common..and - can be corrected....but...it requires some small amount of bedding...which is simple - and permanent. Unless you have bedded a rifle before..it will require some explanation... Would take about an hour or so... no - not the explaining.....the bedding job...
I built MATCH Rifles and SNIPER Rifles for Uncle SAM....many of them...bedded over 500 rifles... DO NOT use tape.. WW2 Soldiers used that black "cloth" electrical tape...when in combat, the weapon would heat up and the tape would stick to the stock and rifle...basically bedding the rifle...
Made them shoot a lot better..but were an absolute nightmare to dis- assemble afterwards..
Buy yourself a "kit" .. of 2 tubes of DEVCON PLASTIC STEEL or ALUMINUM....DO NOT buy the fast setting type..You want the 24 hour set of it.. Comes in 2 tubes..like a glue..
After you get it - get back to me and I will lay out - what to do....
Have a great one...... Gene

Just curious..