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Incoming Inland ‘43 M1: My first

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kwesi1 View Drop Down
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    Posted: Oct 13 2018 at 5:57pm
Hello from TX. I purchased my first M1 before educating myself with the invaluable information on this forum. I own a Automag III in 30 Carbine. Add to that my dad carried the M1 and I made an emotional purchase. Now I’m hoping it’s not a fake,etc. I purchased it from a FFL on GB. It certainly looked to be in very good to excellent condition from the four exterior photos. I trust him when he said the bore was in the same condition. It should arrive early next week. I have some Hornady 110 RN FMJ for plinking loads and some Speer #1895’s 110 HP’s to work up some hog loads. I would love to hear anyone’s load workup’s with the Speer #1895. Thx
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote W5USMC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 13 2018 at 6:18pm
Welcome to the forum. Interested in hearing more about your inbound Inland and seeing some pictures when it arrives.
Wayne
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jackp1028 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 13 2018 at 6:32pm
Hi and welcome to the forum from New Mexico!

Wow, an Automag III in .30 carbine. That sounds rare! Let's see pics of it too.
JackP
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote floydthecat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 13 2018 at 6:44pm
Welcome aboard from TX. Several of us here on the forum reload. I can guarantee you can develop a good hog-load. I find my shooters to be pretty liberal in what they will digest and remain as accurate as I am.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kwesi1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 13 2018 at 6:46pm
Thx. I will post pics of both.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kwesi1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 13 2018 at 10:33pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kwesi1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 13 2018 at 10:51pm
These are the only pics I have at this time:


I know very little about the M1 authenticity.  Any comments or thoughts are welcome.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote floydthecat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 14 2018 at 6:32am
I don't think there can be any doubt that you have an authentic USGI carbine. The family can be divided broadly into two groups...a shooter and a collector. A collector is a carbine that (as far as anyone can tell), is one that is as it was when it left the manufacturer. Those that have been returned to the arsenal for a rebuild will generally be considered as shooters, but the condition of either will affect the price. Your carbine seemingly has been to the arsenal for a rebuild and is very likely what can be called a mix-master. This is not a bash on the carbine, most carbines out there are mix-masters. I feel like you want a shooter and it appears you may have a good one.

The pro's here will need to see some close-up pictures of any stock and parts markings to further evaluate your carbine. Before you shoot it, you need to have it checked-out by a good smith to verify head-space. That is something you can learn to do from posts right here on the forum as time passes. In time, you would be able to determine whether the gun is safe to shoot on your own. I would not just stick a round in it and shoot it without getting comfortable with it. One thing about carbines, any part will exchange with any carbine and people love to swap parts. Just because the gun looks good...doesn't mean it's safe to fire....yet.

Jump in and enjoy!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Donnie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 14 2018 at 8:29am
Welcome to the forum. If you bought a shooter grade carbine as your first one, then that is wise. Joy it. Don't get caught up in "letters" matching judgement, but rather use it to learn more about 30 carbines. Be more focused on functionality and safety. I am a carbine newbie as well and am enjoying my carbine journey.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kwesi1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 14 2018 at 9:15am
floydthecat & Donnie: thank you. I did not purchase this with the expectation it was “collector grade”. I believe it would have sold for much more. I purchased it to enjoy as a shooter. I don’t know of any smiths qualified to assess the condition and safety. I live in Dallas Fort Worth, TX in case anyone can recommend one. I will look for any videos showing me how to check the head space.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote floydthecat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 14 2018 at 10:33am
There is no need to purchase a set of head-space gauges, unless you get into regularly dealing with carbines. It may not be a bad idea to obtain a "field gauge" if you shoot one carbine a lot and want to keep an eye on it. There are three gauges...go, no-go and field. If the bolt will rotate and close on a field gauge when a spec. sized round is chambered, it's unsafe to fire. Field gauges can be had from places like Midway and Brownells, but you're not likely to use it enough to justify the cost. If you chamber a proper round, close the action and can clearly detect the bolt has rotated and locked, your half-way home...that's the "go" test. What you can't detect without a proper gauge or actual measurement....is the total head-space. The no-go gauge is more-or-less a measurement of just how worn the action is. If  I were you, make a few phone calls around and locate a smith/dealer than can stick a field gauge in it and check it. There has to be numerous sources for that around Dallas/Ft. Worth and there may be a fellow forum member that lives close enough to you that can help you out.

You can search for threads here on the forum on a home-spun method. If you have a properly sized case and know what it measures, you can use the case and shim it until the bolt will not rotate and close, make an overall measurement and there is your actual head-space. A field gauge will vary in OAL by manufacturer, but it will usually be 1.301.

I certainly do not want to make this sound simple, but if you have a good general knowledge of how this style of action works...it's not rocket science. I have sent properly sized cases to other forum members to perform this test.

What I would advise is the first tool you should get is a bolt tool. You WILL need one sooner-or-later and they are fairly cheap right now...close to $20 last time I looked at SARCO.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kwesi1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 14 2018 at 10:51am
floydthecat: thanks so much for the education. I will definitely purchase the bolt tool. I was thinking I needed an unissued USGI one. I’ve trimmed all my brass to 1.283 to use in my Automag III. I’m working on H110 ladders:
14.5
14.8
15.0
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote floydthecat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 14 2018 at 11:12am
I like to be gentle on these old girls, I rarely load above 14.5 H110.
13.5 1852fps
14.0 1900 fps
14.5 1945fps

I ran across several pounds of H108. It was a carbine specific surplus powder re-designated as H108. I load it a little lighter.

110-grain 12.5 at 1857fps

I really like a little Mauser (.308) 86-grain soft-point loaded with 16.5 grains H110 at 2334fps. It's a certified Armadillo buster.

All these loads seem to print practically in the same POI on a 25-yard target.

You're a reloader....you can size a round to perform a head-space measurement. Just size it, trim it to square the mouth and press an inverted projectile in it flush with the mouth, crimp it and then measure it. Strip your bolt and close it on the case to make sure it rotates and closes. Add shimming material (scotch tape will do) until the bolt will not rotate and close...and measure the oal of the shimmed case. THAT is your actual overall head-space and if it's under 1.30...you're good to go. I rarely find a used carbine under 1.297-1.298.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kwesi1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 14 2018 at 4:37pm
Interesting options. My mechanical abilities are growing so I will need to digest slowly what you suggested with the inverted round. Are you aware of any YouTube tutorial on it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote floydthecat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 14 2018 at 4:58pm
Not for a carbine that I am aware of, but I have seen one of a builder of bolt rifles using scotch tape to head-space a high dollar bolt gun. Scotch tape is around .001-.002 thick and one just adds it to the base of the case in layers trimmed to fit with a razor blade or pen knife. Some enthusist will glue on feeler gauge or shim material and even solder-on a strip and file it down to create a 1.301 field gauge. I like to determine exactly where my guns head-space. All a commercial gauge will tell you is......it’s not too lose and safe to shoot. It does not tell you how worn the action is. Scotch tape is cheap. You can prep a dummy case since you reload. You will need a good measuring tool like a digital caliper. All you are doing is chambering a case of known length and adding shim-stock to it until the bolt will not rotate and close. You will have to strip your bolt and slide it by hand, but you will need a bolt tool sooner-or-later and will certainly need to learn how to disassemble the carbine as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kwesi1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 14 2018 at 5:59pm
Ok. I get the shimming concept. I need to watch the vidro’s On disassembling the M1 and removing & stripping the bolt. BTW: do we have a dedicated reloading forum?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote floydthecat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 14 2018 at 6:32pm
Originally posted by kwesi1 kwesi1 wrote:

BTW: do we have a dedicated reloading forum?


No, but you can go the the home page and pick-thru the section titled “Safety”, which may have some ammuniton threads. We mostly just bring-it-up-as-we-go. Most any good reloading manual lists Carbine data...as you already know. Information is posted, just have to search it out. Or, start your own thread in the ammuniton section under Safety and you will stir some discussion on favorite loads.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kwesi1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 14 2018 at 6:56pm
Ok. Been looking for anyone using Speer Varminter HP’s. I have Speers load data. I will probably go with H110 and/or AA#9. Eventually I will be able to chrono and post my data.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote floydthecat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 14 2018 at 7:13pm
Like any semi-auto, carbines can be picky eaters. I stick with projectile profiles that mimic military ball and never have any feeding issues. A round nose soft point is about as far off the reservation I venture. Manufactures are producing some pretty wild loads out there. One being the Extreme Cavitator. If I want to go up against something bigger than Armadillo size varmits....I pull out the heavy artillery. People around here routinely hunt Whitetails with the carbine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kwesi1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 14 2018 at 7:26pm
I figure if the M1 doesn’t like a profile then hopefully the Automag will. So far it likes Fiocchi and PPU FMJ and PPU RNSP’s. Coyotes and hog loads for me.
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