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Anyone ever stain a Boyds unfinished stock?

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DonFlynn View Drop Down
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    Posted: Sep 18 2020 at 7:00pm
I just started one tonight, using boiled linseed oil. I figure 1 coat, wiped off and let sit over night then hit it again a few times until I think it's done then it set for a week to dry.

I snagged a set off another forum for $100 and have a set of metal here, might as well try it.    
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painter777 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote painter777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep 18 2020 at 7:03pm
No staining after BLO is applied.
Won't penetrate a Hard finish.

Ch-P777
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DonFlynn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep 18 2020 at 7:35pm
Originally posted by painter777 painter777 wrote:

No staining after BLO is applied.
Won't penetrate a Hard finish.

Ch-P777

I used the wrong term, I'm using the BLO all the way, no stain
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tenOCEE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep 18 2020 at 8:20pm
I bought an unused Winchester some private owner checkered the stock and filled the sling cuts, so it got sanded down and then just some RLO. Turned out pretty decent. It probably has some existing oil soak from it's original oil application.

If I were doing a new stock the process would be the same as with any refinished stock. What I have is Fiebings (sp) DARK Brown (which is really a brown and not a red/brown) and some Angelus Dark Brown, which is reddish/brown.

I use about equal amounts of Denat alcohol with mostly Fiebings Dark Brown then a splash of Angelus Dark Brown before applying to the stock.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote painter777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep 18 2020 at 8:28pm
@Don,
Ok that's Good news !
Your on your way then.
You can scuff between dry coats with a scotch pad to knock down any raised grain fuzz.
When you have all coats to your liking and stock is plenty dry you can use same Scotch pad lightly oiled for a final buff down and to knock down some shine. But skip oil if you plan to wax.
Some like to wax instead of the oily buff down. 
Let us see it when your done.

Good luck,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DonFlynn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep 18 2020 at 9:11pm
Originally posted by painter777 painter777 wrote:

@Don,
Ok that's Good news !
Your on your way then.
You can scuff between dry coats with a scotch pad to knock down any raised grain fuzz.
When you have all coats to your liking and stock is plenty dry you can use same Scotch pad lightly oiled for a final buff down and to knock down some shine. But skip oil if you plan to wax.
Some like to wax instead of the oily buff down. 
Let us see it when your done.

Good luck,

I can see a couple spots where the scotch pad is going to get some work, in the oiler area and up front around the barrel band.

Don't worry, I'll post a picture when I'm done Big smile I figure I'll play with it for a week, then let it set a week to harden up then mount it on my 43 Inland. That one came with a birch stock anyway to the WWII stock it long gone anyway
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote New2brass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep 18 2020 at 9:29pm

Let us know how that works out.
As I understand it BLO will not build up like RLO. Once the finish hardens successive coats will just just come off when you wipe it down.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote painter777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep 18 2020 at 9:47pm
When the 1st coat of BLO dries the grain will raise in spots. The BLO will hold the raised grain like shaving cream will do to your beard stubble  (so I'm told, I've had a beard since I was 17).
I use the 3m sponge type sanding blocks in a fine grain. Usually break them in on other sanding projects before using on a stock. But you could use a new one and just use it with light pressure. They are handy because you can bend/flex them to fit most any contour. Since your stock wasn't stained beforehand you don't have to worry about cutting an edge where you'd strip the stain off, so don't be afraid to use it hard after the 1st BLO coat dries. Lighter use after the 2nd coat and lighter yet after the 3rd.
I finished woods for 40+ years in my field. Wanna talk nervous ? Imagine prepping, staining, sealing and varnishing a custom built hand rail/stairway that cost nearly $250,000, just in material and fabrication. Yes I turned gray haired early on. A great feeling of accomplishment when a project comes out right.
Wish I was working on that stock instead of my current project, a new timing chain and cam phasers on a 2014 Ford Eco Screw. 2nd time, 1st by the dealer with 14K miles on it. As of now she has 47+k on it...... Censored
Excited about your project and hoping it comes out nice !
I could use some good news.

Enjoy your weekend,
Ch-P777

ETA: Successive coats of BLO will dry but not always evenly, sometimes areas that had heavier coat applied wont surface dry as fast. When light sanding between coats if you run in to a tacky area wipe it with regular paint thinner/mineral spirits. That will remove the tacky feel so you can finish up the light sanding. BLO has dryers in it. So apply thin and like you have planned let dry. You'll be fine. In fact a wipe of Mineral spirits between coats will remove oils from you handling it. That and the light sanding between coats will give you good adhesion.
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