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Beezer
On Point Joined: May 21 2020 Location: Cleveland OH Status: Offline Points: 171 |
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Posted: May 28 2020 at 2:47pm |
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I am a brand new member of this forum and have been lurking and reading plenty on here. I gotta say, you guys know your stuff. That being said, what is the best suggestion for removing all the crud from the RTI carbines? I’ve heard everything from 100% ethanol, mineral spirits and 0000 steel wool to scrubbing with Dawn soap and hot water. Thanks in advance for everyone’s advise.
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floydthecat
Hard Corps Joined: Oct 13 2016 Location: Mississippi Status: Offline Points: 1996 |
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One thing for sure, no matter how you do it, it will be fun and maybe you will learn something. First thing I use to do b4 I bought a used car was to wash it. You might be surprised at what that will tell you.
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Beezer
On Point Joined: May 21 2020 Location: Cleveland OH Status: Offline Points: 171 |
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I ordered an excellent to unissued carbine and as soon as it arrives, I will be stripping it down and giving it the love it deserves.
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W5USMC
Moderator Group Joined: Apr 29 2017 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 2949 |
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Many ways to skin a cat and many "Best Way" opinions. I use CLP and a toothbrush for scrubbing, Butch's bore shine and Wilson Combat Optima Oil and Grease. I have also used carburetor cleaner in the past for really gunked up parts.
Edited by W5USMC - May 29 2020 at 3:43pm |
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Wayne
USMC Retired NRA Life Member |
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sling00
Hard Corps Joined: Apr 21 2016 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 941 |
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Welcome to the forum. First question would be what is the "crud"? For cosmoline (typical with the Mosins and SKS imports) I've soaked parts in mineral spirits and "baked" the parts in the sun to let it drip off. Actually I usually started with a large "Popsicle" stick and a bunch of rags to get the bulk of it. There's lots of posts on that. As for grit, dirt and power residue whatever typical gun cleaner you have on hand. Keep in mind most of the cleaners are de-greasers so it'll be dry when your done. Be prepared to oil it down within a reasonable time. In addition to toothbrushes mention above, swabs are handy. Regular cotton swabs leave fibers/lint but they make swabs for gun cleaning. Small ones work great on firing pin, extractor and ejector holes on bolts. I've also used compressed air to blow all the loose crud off before starting and all the crooks and crannies. Have fun.
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Beezer
On Point Joined: May 21 2020 Location: Cleveland OH Status: Offline Points: 171 |
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Mainly cosmoline and dirt.
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03manV
On Point Joined: Mar 01 2020 Location: near Charlotte Status: Offline Points: 262 |
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Welcome Beezer.
Wash with stock with a damp to slightly wet soapy cloth; don't soak it- just rub and scrub. If that doesn't do it, spray something like 409 or green cleaner or citrus cleaner and let sit a bit, then rub and scrub again. Metal parts, most any "solvent" - proprietary stuff in a can or kerosene or paint thinner- followed by a good scrubbing with the brush mentioned above. Soak if need be, then wipe off and use Q-tips as needed. Compressed air will help clean off the solvent, but make a mess! Follow with a good oil. It is not rocket science, just use your common sense.
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Don
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painter777
Hard Corps Joined: Feb 18 2016 Location: Central MI Status: Online Points: 1708 |
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Did Floyd say take it to the car wash??
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Living Free because of those that serve.....
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David Milisock
On Point Joined: Aug 03 2019 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 334 |
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Lots of good advice here on this site from good people. I'm patient and drop all metal into a degreaser tank just big enough to fit. The first day visiting a couple times to scrape off gunk. Then once or twice a day for awhile depending on the results, I had one take 4 days. I then hang the metal to drip then wash out the degreaser gunk with alcohol, wipe down and inspect. Finish up with a bore cleaning and a light coat of oil.
The wood in my opinion is more tricky because it's already old, maybe real valuable and more easily damaged. I'm sure not the best or only way. The last time I did it I used only a citrus based solvent that I used in my print shop and water. I soaked a rag in solvent, wiped the stock down and used a squeegee from vinyl installs to scrape off the thick gunk. I then soaked the stock for about half a work day submerged in the citrus solvent, wiped it down with the citrus solvent hung it and low heated it with flood lights, not too close. Lightly wiping the stock with citrus and wiping the citrus off with a water damp cloth a few times a day. Depending on how long the wood was stored in cosmoline and your standards it may take awhile. I had a Garand stock take 2 weeks and a WWI Enfield that took a month. The wood for the most part stops weeping gunk after awhile and then I wash the stock with a real wet rag and let it air dry. Then I wipe with citrus and follow with a damp water wipe, let it heat and hang until any minute signs of weeping gunk disappears. In my opinion after that it's best if you can let the stock hang in a warm environment for a few weeks before refinishing or reinstalling. If the water made the stock fee fuzzy a light hit with fine steel wool can help.
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David Milisock
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floydthecat
Hard Corps Joined: Oct 13 2016 Location: Mississippi Status: Offline Points: 1996 |
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I will admit this (since nobody might bother to court-martial me after over 50-years), but we used to take our field stripped M14 to the showers after a day at the range. Real hot water will clean it and then it will dry as it evaporates. Then there was this time with the cleaning-rod and steel-wool, but we don’t need to mention that.
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New2brass
Moderator Group Dan Pinto, Photo Editor Joined: Nov 29 2015 Location: CT Status: Offline Points: 4627 |
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Guys, Any water based cleaning for the stock is certain to create problems and further ruin what may be a collector stock! It swells the wood and a CC if present might eventually raise making it less defined
There are many threads on this. Please use the search function on the bar under the carbine picture. Quick answer: Get Raw Linseed Oil (RLO). Not BLO! If your hardware store does not have it ask them to get it in. You can also go to the health food store and get it but more expensive. The RLO will emulsify the dirt and grime and list it off. Use a terry cloth or white sock inside out so the grime can get trapped in the fibers and not act like a sand paper. Wipe down and repeat. Once to your liking wipe it down and let dry over night. Next day apply RLO and rub it in. Wait 15 minutes and then wipe down. Do this till you have a nice buildup. I think you will be pleasantly pleased with the results.
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Beezer
On Point Joined: May 21 2020 Location: Cleveland OH Status: Offline Points: 171 |
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I was told by an “old timer” at the range that in the old days he used ethanol or moonshine to remove cosmoline from the stocks since it would melt the wax right off of it but dry very fast and then coat it with tung oil and let it hang dry for a week. He said he would drop all metal parts in a bucket of shine or ethanol, swish it around and wipe it off then continue to clean and oil as you normally would. I asked if he had any moonshine to give it a try with and his response was, “I’m to old to waste the good stuff on cleaning, I use it for medicinal purposes now” Just wasn’t sure if he was bs’ing me or if anyone has used this method. Either way, I cannot wait to get mine and personally get to know every little piece as I clean. I love the history in the old guns.
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03manV
On Point Joined: Mar 01 2020 Location: near Charlotte Status: Offline Points: 262 |
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He was "wasting" alcohol even then; if it worked at all. 120 proof alcohol is only 60% and would not do much; most shine does not reach that concentration. Kerosene would be much cheaper and effective. JMHO.
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Don
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Beezer
On Point Joined: May 21 2020 Location: Cleveland OH Status: Offline Points: 171 |
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I don’t drink anymore but I fully agree. I may try the ethanol method and will let y’all know.
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jangle
On Point Joined: Jan 13 2016 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 146 |
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From one buckeye to another, welcome to this site.
Beezer's original question and the subsequent reply's are one reason I rarely offer advice.... several ideas but IMHO only one is correct, RLO.
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New2brass
Moderator Group Dan Pinto, Photo Editor Joined: Nov 29 2015 Location: CT Status: Offline Points: 4627 |
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Jangle, the sharing of ideas is what it is all about, A discussion, where people express their ideas and hopefully come to the conclusion of what is correct or best solution to the question. I was surprised no one chimed in sooner on RLO. Re: Grain alcohol, it is Ethanol. The stuff that is reeking havoc on older cars, boats and small motors by drying out the old seals. I believe it absorbs moisture from the air as well. Nothing like water in your gasoline! Basically as a fuel additive I believe it significantly reduces its shelf life, meaning you cannot store it. Hmm? On its own it has applications as a fuel. Denatured alcohol can be found at hardware stores fairly cheap. Denatured alcohol is basically Ethanol that additives are added so you cannot consume it as it will make you sick or worse. The problem with using denatured alcohol is some of those additives can be absorbed into your skin. I am not offering advice on how to clean the metal, but if you do choose chemicals be aware of the heath risk and wear appropriate hand and eye respiratory protection for whatever chemical you use. What I will offer is once you clean the metal do oil it afterwards.
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03manV
On Point Joined: Mar 01 2020 Location: near Charlotte Status: Offline Points: 262 |
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There is not only one "correct" answer- "cleaning" depends way too much on
the condition of the stock, birch or walnut, markings or not, the finish it has now, and how much "dirt" and what that dirt is! We all have our opinions and perhaps experience(not just ideas) with what has worked for "us" over the years. Beezer is not likely to do more harm than has already been done in the "Ethiopian" stocks history! JMHO
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Don
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W5USMC
Moderator Group Joined: Apr 29 2017 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 2949 |
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I just assumed the OP was referring to cleaning the metal parts, personally I only use RLO on the stock and hand guard and that is all I would recommend. I have tried many other methods from Murphy's Oil Soap, mineral spirits, denatured alcohol, cut RLO ect.. and have found that the straight RLO works best for me. A little bit goes along way.
The S-HB stock I received on my RTI NPM is actually in great condition and there is no way that I would attempt to clean it with anything other than RLO.
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Wayne
USMC Retired NRA Life Member |
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