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Murphy's Oil Soap |
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BER911
Grunt Joined: Aug 04 2018 Location: Central VA Status: Offline Points: 314 |
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Posted: Sep 17 2018 at 10:33am |
I know a lot of you guys like Murphy's Oil Soap for cleaning vintage USGI wood. I am going to give it a try on a USGI stock I recently purchased for my M1.
I would like to hear the specific techniques you guys use with the oil soap. Do you just wipe down the stock with the oil soap, or do you scrub it with a scuffer pad? I assume you also clean the inside of the stock; mine is pretty dirty on the inside also. Any tips appreciated. Thanks!
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Semper Fi, Bruce
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Charles
Grunt Joined: Mar 21 2016 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 587 |
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I use a stiff bristle brush on the interior surfaces but something gentler on the outside. Let thoroughly dry and re oil.
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Charles
Co B 1st Batl.115 Inf. Reg. 29th. Divi. 4.2 Heavy Mortar Co Retired Life member NRA |
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BER911
Grunt Joined: Aug 04 2018 Location: Central VA Status: Offline Points: 314 |
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Thanks Charles. Good information.
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Semper Fi, Bruce
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jackp1028
Hard Corps Joined: Jan 01 2016 Location: Cloudcroft, NM Status: Offline Points: 1273 |
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Do small areas and wipe dry as you go. Avoid getting the stock soaking wet.
Remember, this will remove all the "patina" of 75 years and return the wood to nearly it's original color. As you go, look for "buried treasure" such as painted rack numbers, ordnance stamps in the oiler slot, stenciled markings in the interior, etc. Afterward, as you re-oil the stock, the color will start to darken again. I discovered an ordnance bomb in the oiler slot of my Robert Irwin post war replacement stock. Also, after cleaning, I could make out the presence of a nearly invisible rack number stencil that beforehand was hidden along with a Dutchman repair that I hadn't previously noticed. See below. |
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JackP
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BER911
Grunt Joined: Aug 04 2018 Location: Central VA Status: Offline Points: 314 |
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Jack.
I like finding little hidden "treasures". I am not terribly concerned about losing some of the patina on my M1; it's a shooter and I just want it to look nice. As you can see, the USGI stock is a bit dark. I would not mind having it a little lighter. I'll probably start cleaning it tomorrow. |
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Semper Fi, Bruce
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New2brass
Moderator Group Dan Pinto, Photo Editor Joined: Nov 29 2015 Location: CT Status: Online Points: 4627 |
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Use RLO as a "soap" you might be surprised.
It will emulsify the grime and top layer of finish to be wiped off. As to whatever direction you choose I would start with unwaxed cheese cloth. If you want to be more aggressive use denim. Elastic section of white socks good for grimy areas as it gives a place for dirt to go rather then rubbing it into the pores. From there 0000 steel wool if you must, with a very light hand |
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SWANEEDMB
On Point Joined: Jul 31 2016 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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What type of mixture is used ??
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jackp1028
Hard Corps Joined: Jan 01 2016 Location: Cloudcroft, NM Status: Offline Points: 1273 |
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I use the orange oil spray formula just as it comes out of the bottle. No need to add water. It's the same as the original formula but with preservative, citrus fragrance and color added. The spray is more convenient for small areas. Just be sure to wipe it off before it dries. Here's a link to Murphy's web site.
https://www.murphyoilsoap.com/products/orange-oil-cleaner |
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JackP
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BER911
Grunt Joined: Aug 04 2018 Location: Central VA Status: Offline Points: 314 |
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Thanks Jack. I purchased "orange scented" spray bottle of the oil soap. My stock is not only going to look good, but smell great!
I'll try using the tooth brush to "scrub" the wood with. I may need to lightly rub with 0000 steel wool; we will see. |
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Semper Fi, Bruce
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jackp1028
Hard Corps Joined: Jan 01 2016 Location: Cloudcroft, NM Status: Offline Points: 1273 |
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Please take before and after pictures of your stock so that we can see the results of your labors.
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JackP
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BER911
Grunt Joined: Aug 04 2018 Location: Central VA Status: Offline Points: 314 |
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Good idea. Hopefully, publishing pics of an M1 will not get me banned from the CC Club! The process starts tomorrow. |
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Semper Fi, Bruce
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jackp1028
Hard Corps Joined: Jan 01 2016 Location: Cloudcroft, NM Status: Offline Points: 1273 |
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Also, would you objectively comment on any observations that aren't evident in the photographs like "whiskering" of the wood fibers due to the moisture or uneven discoloration or contaminants that are difficult to remove (ink, paint, etc,)? Let us know what effect the cleaning has on cartouches, stamps, etc. Are they more or less visible afterward?
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JackP
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BER911
Grunt Joined: Aug 04 2018 Location: Central VA Status: Offline Points: 314 |
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This morning I cleaned my M1 Garand stock and hand guards.
I purchased the USGI stock in August from a gentleman on the CMP forums. The stock and hand guards are in very good shape for WWII-vintage walnut. The patina and grim that had built up over the last 70+ years was very very dark, with very little color to the wood. The surface of the wood also had a "tacky" feel. My goal was to clean up the wood and reveal it's natural beauty. Losing the original patina was not a concern to me, because this rifle is a shooter, not a collector's piece. But like my M1 Carbine in Vietnam, I had actually used a Garand during my infantry training in 1967, so I have a sentimental attachment to the M1. I used the following items to clean the stock and hand guards. A bucket of clear warm water, a small kitchen sponge (sponge on one side and a scuff pad on the other), several drying towels, a tooth brush, Simple Green and Murphy's Oil Soap (pre-mixed in spray bottle). I first dampened a section of wood, sprayed on some oil soap and let it sit for 60 seconds. I then rubbed with the sponge surface, but that was not doing much. I flipped it over to the scuff side and started to make some progress. But the oil soap alone, would not get down to where I could see the wood fibers. Hum? I did not want to scrub with anything more abrasive (i.e. steel wool), so I pondered what else might help cut thru the crud on the wood. I had a bottle of Simple Green handy, so I mixed Simple Green and Murphy's Oil Soap in a 50/50 ratio. BINGO! That did the trick. I gently scrubbed all the surface and interior wood surfaces with the scuff pad. I used the tooth brush on the inside of the stock and hand guards. I will admit I kept the wood surfaces fairly damp, especially when I rinsed the pieces after cleaning. I took my air compressor and blew dry all the surfaces and crevices of the wood. I then hand dried everything again with clean towels. They are now air drying in a humidity (45%) controlled room. The wood now shows it's beautiful walnut color with a shade of red. The surface of the wood is amazingly smooth to the touch, but does have some "bumps & bruises" as would be expected. There are no cracks or serious gouges in the wood. I only uncovered one "secret" mark...a circled P on the bottom side of the handgrip. So far, I am extremely pleased with the cleaning results. I am a firm believer in using Murphy's Oil Soap instead of mineral spirits...thanks for the tip! These first two pics are of the stock before cleaning. There are no detail pics because there really was no detail...everything was ebony. Here are a few pictures just after cleaning and drying the wood: I will let the wood dry overnight. In the morning I will "buff" the wood surfaces with 0000 steel wool to make the surface satin smooth. I am contemplating whether or not to next apply a wood stain, or just put on a couple coats of Pure Tung Oil. Tung oil is more water resistant than linseed oil, and since my rifle is out in the elements a lot, I want that extra protection. I am leaning towards just tung oil, but I'll see how I feel in the morning. Your suggestions are welcome. |
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Semper Fi, Bruce
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BER911
Grunt Joined: Aug 04 2018 Location: Central VA Status: Offline Points: 314 |
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UPDATE
I couple of my Marine buddies came over to see my NPM Bavarian Carbine and sip a few amber colored malted beverages. While here, I asked their opinion about the finish for my newly cleaned M1 stock. It was unanimous...NO stain. Preserve the color and texture of the vintage walnut with pure tung oil. The first coat is now drying. Pictures to follow after the second coat. |
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Semper Fi, Bruce
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Charles
Grunt Joined: Mar 21 2016 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 587 |
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Wise choice.
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Charles
Co B 1st Batl.115 Inf. Reg. 29th. Divi. 4.2 Heavy Mortar Co Retired Life member NRA |
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BER911
Grunt Joined: Aug 04 2018 Location: Central VA Status: Offline Points: 314 |
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I have just completed the cleaning and refinishing of my M1 stock and hand guards. I am very pleased with the results.
Here is what I did. When the wood had totally dried after cleaning, I did need to smooth the wood surface because there were a few "whiskers" caused by the wood getting damp during the cleaning. I used 0000 steel wool and that made the wood surfaces very smooth to the touch. I applied two coats of pure tung oil. After the first coat dried, I rubbed down the surface with 0000 steel wool. After the second coat dried, I applied "Gunny Paste" to give the surface of the wood a bit more protection from the elements. I can now enjoy the beauty and color of 70+ year old USGI walnut. |
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Semper Fi, Bruce
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jackp1028
Hard Corps Joined: Jan 01 2016 Location: Cloudcroft, NM Status: Offline Points: 1273 |
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Bruce, it looks like it turned out really great!
I've never needed to use a detergent with Murphey's so I'm surprised that you needed to do so. Did this cleaning eliminate the stickiness you reported? The color looks pretty even. Did you find any other "treasures" besides the "P" proof mark? When I use RLO, it doesn't really dry like a varnish. It just soaks in. Also, I've never used "gunny paste" afterward. I've heard it's a mixture of beeswax, BLO and turpentine. It looks like it gives the wood more of a "glossy" finish. I'd have to rub my stocks down a dozen times to get that kind of gloss with RLO. And then I think it is more the wear from my hands that results in the gloss and not so much the product I use. Most of my experience is with carbine stocks that supposedly were soaked in RLO during manufacture. Were Garand stocks treated in the same way? |
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JackP
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Donnie
On Point Joined: May 31 2018 Location: Newburgh, IN Status: Offline Points: 335 |
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BER911, nice to see you are pleased with the results. Your Garand looks great ..and so does your Porche in the background. I am so happy that you did not stain it. While I like a more "original from the factory" look and less of a shine, your wood finish looks very good.
I have had good result cleaning old, dirty and sticky wood on many of my vintage firearms using denatured alcohol. It works well for light cleaning without removing the aged patina of the RLO original finish. Lastly, thanks for sharing your project with such detail and great photos. |
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BER911
Grunt Joined: Aug 04 2018 Location: Central VA Status: Offline Points: 314 |
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Thanks for the positive feedback.
There was a lot of "crud" on my stock, and the oil soap was not doing the job and I did not want to scrub to hard with the scuff pad. I figured I would mix in something a bit stronger and the Simple Green did the trick. It also eliminated the tacky surface feel. Unfortunately, no other "treasures" were discovered on the stock. There are some very faint outlines that could have been a cartouche, but I can not say for sure. The Gunny Paste is good stuff for weather protection, but it does add a bit of gloss if you buff it out a lot. There is a bit more gloss on the stock than I would care to see, but it will go away once I make a couple trips to the range. I do like seeing the natural grain of the wood and the beautiful color. I have never used linseed oil, so I have no experience with it. Based on the pics of the carbines on this site, I looks like a wonderful finish on a walnut or cherry stock. I'll have to try it someday.
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Semper Fi, Bruce
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