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How to repair a loose stock? |
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choprboy
Recruit Joined: Jun 13 2018 Location: Southwest Status: Offline Points: 48 |
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The stock is pretty dirty and brown (looks a lot lighter in the pictures); the crack I mentioned above, another small crack in the nose, a few scratches and dings, but nothing major. Nice S'G' and cannons on the side, no rebuild or import marks. I am hoping with bit of oil soap and gentle cleanup it will really shine.
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jackp1028
Hard Corps Joined: Jan 01 2016 Location: Cloudcroft, NM Status: Offline Points: 1276 |
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Nice looking stock! Look in the sling well for some initials. They might be hard to read but judging from the shape I suspect it's stamped "RSG" made by Robert W. Irwin of Grand Rapids, MI. Also, look for a circle "P" on the heel of the pistol grip. I suggest using Murphy's Oil Soap to clean it up and then after it drys, rub, rub, rub with flax seed oil (same as raw linseed oil). Flax seed oil is a food additive that you can get at any health food store in an 8 oz. bottle. Has Omega 3!
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JackP
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choprboy
Recruit Joined: Jun 13 2018 Location: Southwest Status: Offline Points: 48 |
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Oh yeah, RSG, clear as day. Same with the hand guard. No P mark. Also note the PM-IP buttplate. Which actually brings up another question I had. Various charts seem to say a RSG stock was used at S.G. It shows IP-IR and IR-IP used at S'G'. given it's a S'G' rifle, incorrect stock or probably a lot of mixing between the plants?
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jackp1028
Hard Corps Joined: Jan 01 2016 Location: Cloudcroft, NM Status: Offline Points: 1276 |
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Actually, my resources say RSG stocks were used on both Saginaw Gear, Saginaw (SG) and Saginaw Gear, Grand Rapids (S'G'). Others may want to chime in, but it looks correct to me. The SG stocks may have had other numbers stamped along with the "RSG". RSG by itself looks correct for S'G'. Also, "PM-IP" is a later butt plate also used on S'G' carbines.
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JackP
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James K
On Point Joined: Jan 12 2018 Location: Longview Wa. Status: Offline Points: 66 |
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Numrich bundle of five broken stocks no longer available. Back to creative wood work and/or gunshow finds.
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New2brass
Moderator Group Dan Pinto, Photo Editor Joined: Nov 29 2015 Location: CT Status: Offline Points: 4656 |
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From the few picture I see on this I have to ask everyone to step back and evaluate it at to a shooter or a collector piece.
There was a recent lengthy thread on recoil plate and fixes. This was a mixmaster shooter. In there somewhere was how to seat the action by the book by rapping the buttplate on the ground. I would not be rapping or tapping this one on the ground. My advice was to pull the trigger guard back while cycling the action and letting the slide slam forward which will seat the stock in the recoil plate. I would not be swapping out any parts such as that recoil plate. If you just want a good shooter send me yours and I will give you my best shooter in exchange! What I am seeing is possibly a collector stock on a collector carbine. If you bed or epoxy anything you chance turning a several hundred dollar stock into a less valuable one. There are a few people who do repair stocks correctly which you may want them to look at if you cannot do it correctly. If you can do this then have at it. Just understand what I am saying about value. Murphy's Oil Soap contains vegetable oil base, OK not so bad as it is similar to Linseed/Flaxseed oil. It also contains Propylene Glycol which is hygyroscopic, which means it has the ability to grab water molecules from the surrounding environment. KEEP WATER AWAY FROM COLLECTOR STOCKS! Next it has fragrance. No comment here. Surfactants which lowers surface tension to emulsify and lift dirt, will get back to this and then it has water.... Did someone say something about water????? Oh yea, see above. My opinion, and it is your carbine to do with as you will please. Others will probably chime in and say something contrary. The only thing that should touch your stock is Raw Linseed Oil. Never Boiled Linseed Oil! I do not care what the guys in Vietnam or Korea did. Every manual for any USGI firearm that has wood furniture calls for RLO. It is well documented that RLO was what was used and called for in carbine production. RLO will dissolve RLO to a degree, It will act as a surfactant and emulsify the dirt to clean off any grime. It will add layers which can be built up to beautify and protect your stock. It seeps into pores to protect it. It is easily touched up by adding more. RLO is usually available in a good hardware store. If not ask them and they will bring it in. Or you can look online. Probably as cheap as the stuff in health food or vitamin shop but you get way more then you will ever need. Plus it does not have to be refrigerated which concerns me, Does the stuff in health food store go rancid? Before anyone glorifys Boiled Linseed Oil you have to understand that they are both made from Flax seed. But the "Boiled" part is the issue. It is not really boiled. Boiled is an old term from Roman days. It has metallic driers which are used as a catalyst to get it to flash off quicker and dry. The problem is once it drys it seals the wood and subsequent layers do not adhere. RLO will not dissolve it nor build on it. It does not get deep into the pores, basically seals surface. It is harder and chips which is not as easy to touch up. I do hope that helps. |
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W5USMC
Moderator Group Joined: Apr 29 2017 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 2958 |
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Yes the pure flaxseed oil from the health food store does need refrigerated, has a shelf life or (freshest by date) and yes it will go rancid, although I am not sure that would be an issue once it dries on a stock. I agree with Dan, stick with Raw Linseed oil only. I got a quart on amazon for like $18 and it will probably last me forever. |
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Wayne
USMC Retired NRA Life Member |
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Donnie
On Point Joined: May 31 2018 Location: Newburgh, IN Status: Offline Points: 336 |
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New2brass, I sure found your advice helpful. I will be sure to look for RLO and not BLO going forward. As a newbie with a new to me Inland carbine, I would like to clean my stock very gently and carefully. I have heard that I should use denatured alcohol to do so. But, before I run out and buy some of that I thought I'd consult the carbine stock experts for advice. What product should I use to clean my stock with? The stock is very dark and feels dirty and a little bit sticky. |
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Charles
Grunt Joined: Mar 21 2016 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 587 |
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I'v used Murphy Oil Soap with very good results. While it's cleaning the wood it is also feeding it. I especially wanted to clean the inside of the stock and hand guard of powder residue. Some would prefer to keep it looking as though it just came from the battle field, We where instructed to clean our weapons at every opportunity with whatever and re oil it.
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Charles
Co B 1st Batl.115 Inf. Reg. 29th. Divi. 4.2 Heavy Mortar Co Retired Life member NRA |
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BER911
Grunt Joined: Aug 04 2018 Location: Central VA Status: Offline Points: 314 |
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I just read this thread from back in June...very informative, especially Dan's input on shooter vs collector stocks, Raw Linseed Oil and Murphy's Oil Soap. Good information for a newbie!
I have an observation and a question. I posted a week or so ago, that I purchased a second stock for my 1704xxx Rock-Ola. When I purchased the Rock from the CMP, it came with a very nice post-war Springfield Armory pot-belly stock. I recently purchased a Type I Rock-Ola stock (made for Inland) to match my receiver and barrel. This past Monday, I took the Rock to the range along with both stocks. I first shot about 45 rounds with the Rock-Ola stock. I then installed the SA pot-belly and put another 45 rounds down range. I can honestly say the SA pot-belly is the stock to use on a shooter. The SA stock was tighter, felt more solid in my grip and produced a tighter and consistent grouping of my shots. The Rock-Ola stock looks good on my carbine, but it is a bit "squirrelly" on the range. Just my personal observations. Question - I have in my refrigerator a bottle of "Spectrum Essentials" Organic Flax Oil w/Omega-3. It has not expired and smells ok. Can this be used on our stocks instead of RLO? Thanks.
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Semper Fi, Bruce
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New2brass
Moderator Group Dan Pinto, Photo Editor Joined: Nov 29 2015 Location: CT Status: Offline Points: 4656 |
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Quick lookup stated its ingredients are cold pressed unrefined organic flaxseed oil.
Flax oil and linseed oil are the same thing, just different name. From the linum uaitatissimum plant. |
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BER911
Grunt Joined: Aug 04 2018 Location: Central VA Status: Offline Points: 314 |
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Thanks Dan.
I think I will wipe a coating of the flax oil on my SA pot-belly and RMC-I stocks. Question about the stock on my NPM-Bavarian. The stock appears to have been sanded and a "shellac" coating applied some years ago. I don't think RLO, or flax oil, will penetrate the shellac. Therefore, applying a coating of RLO would be a waste of time and oil. Is this correct? Thank you.
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Semper Fi, Bruce
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Charles
Grunt Joined: Mar 21 2016 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 587 |
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Yes, you must expose the bare wood to get the benefit of the oil.
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Charles
Co B 1st Batl.115 Inf. Reg. 29th. Divi. 4.2 Heavy Mortar Co Retired Life member NRA |
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BER911
Grunt Joined: Aug 04 2018 Location: Central VA Status: Offline Points: 314 |
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Charles,That's what I thought. Thanks for the confirmation.
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Semper Fi, Bruce
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New2brass
Moderator Group Dan Pinto, Photo Editor Joined: Nov 29 2015 Location: CT Status: Offline Points: 4656 |
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For the Bavarian, I would leave the shiny finish as it is now correct for the Bavarian, part of its history.
Shellac is made with Alcohol usually yellowish. Denatured would take it off. I believe the Bavarians lacquered or varnished the stocks. I would use Lacquer thinner. Both I would recommend good ventilation. Propper disposal of any rags, especially the RLO which can spontaneously ignite.
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BER911
Grunt Joined: Aug 04 2018 Location: Central VA Status: Offline Points: 314 |
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More excellent information; thanks Dan.
You are correct; the finish on the Bavarian does look like either lacquer or varnish. I'm going to leave the Bavarian stock as is; it is a collector carbine, so I do not was to disturb history. |
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Semper Fi, Bruce
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