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Da1Chief 
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Joined: Oct 16 2021 Location: Suffolk, VA Status: Offline Points: 127 |
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 Posted: Nov 11 2021 at 10:09am |
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Matt_X, I already have Craig Riesch's Book (8th edition) These are the books I mentioned I have on order "War Baby" 1st volume "M1 Carbine" 3rd Edition coming. I will get "War Baby" 2nd volume (Coming Home) when I can afford it... V/r Da1Chief
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m1a1fan
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Got Para? Joined: Jan 01 2016 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 1736 |
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Posted: Nov 11 2021 at 10:14am |
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The full set of newsletters aren’t even close to that much. Think my set was $270. They have helped me acquire original carbines and avoid those that aren’t.
40+ years of research for $300. A bargain IMO. The manufacturer updates are worth that much alone. JMO.
http://www.uscarbinecal30.com/forum/sale-of-ccnl-back-issues-quick-index_topic5769.html I suspect it is a rebuild since the bolt looked mostly if not all parked (not blued), plus the T3 band. There’s another potential clue in the OP’s original post, but only a few might make the possible connection. Rebuilds aren’t a bad thing. They just have extra history passing though one or more rebuild facilities. |
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Bigheavy31
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Joined: Aug 24 2020 Location: Asheville NC Status: Offline Points: 135 |
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Posted: Nov 11 2021 at 1:25pm |
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Hello- thought I might add to the discussion that if you carefully strip the varnish off the stock you will probably like it better. I have a standard pro stock that once stripped has become quite nice with a much better looking cartouche. You want to be careful and limit the water application around the cartouche- but no varnish allow an application of RLO (raw linseed oil) which is the original finish on the stock. The rlo can accentuate what is left of the cartouche. I used citristrip which is fairly gentle for a stripper. Good luck
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Da1Chief
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Joined: Oct 16 2021 Location: Suffolk, VA Status: Offline Points: 127 |
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Posted: Nov 11 2021 at 2:36pm |
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Bigheavy31, I had planed to remove the varnish off the stock. I watch what is "suppose to be" an expert on restoration of old rifles recommend, "Varnish Thinner" not the "Remover". He clearly stated that NO water was to be used as it would make the wood swell. I am suppose to dampen cotton balls or pure cotton rag and simply wipe/rub. He said it would not be an immediate removal and that it would take time. However, that you could "Feel" when the varnish was starting to loosen as the rag will start to drag and show signs of the varnish coming off. Just keep at it and when the rag start to move smoothly over the stock move to a new spot and start over. He also stated when you are down to the raw wood your eyes will tell you. He also said the same procedure would remove varnish from the metal. The only difference to to use "00" grade steel wool and use zero pressure. Not sure I trust that so it will be cotton rags for me. (Big Smile) I figure it will take several days to get it done. After each session am suppose to use Raw Linseed Oil (I only have the Boiled" version) to replenish the wood. That will have to do until I can find a place that sells RLO or order it through Amazon with next day delivery. My cartouche was virtually eliminated by some previous owner so all I have is a stained circle but no matter what it will be better than what I have. Varnish removal is this weekend project (Big Smile) Thanks for the info !! V/r Da1Chief
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Bigheavy31
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Joined: Aug 24 2020 Location: Asheville NC Status: Offline Points: 135 |
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Posted: Nov 11 2021 at 3:01pm |
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Chief- want to mention that boiled (BLO) linseed oil isn’t the same as RLO. I would source some RLO off Amazon (as I did) and you suggested before starting to strip the stock. Just my experience. Have fun either way!
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HammerGrunt
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Joined: Aug 05 2021 Location: Florida Status: Offline Points: 436 |
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Posted: Nov 11 2021 at 3:24pm |
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If you cant readily get RLO you can also use Flax Seed Oil which is available at any Drugstore on Capsule form :-)
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Da1Chief
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Joined: Oct 16 2021 Location: Suffolk, VA Status: Offline Points: 127 |
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Posted: Nov 11 2021 at 3:37pm |
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Bigheavy31 Just wanted to let you know, I just ordered a Quart of RLO from Amazon for delivery tomorrow. Thanks !!!!! HammerGrunt, Thank you as well for the suggestion and option "Just In Case" I couldn't find it. I always like options.. (Big Smile) V/r Da1Chief
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kro1970
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Joined: Jan 01 2016 Location: Central Florida Status: Offline Points: 303 |
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Posted: Nov 11 2021 at 4:39pm |
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Minwax furniture refinisher is a good choice for removing varnish without damaging the wood.
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Da1Chief
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Joined: Oct 16 2021 Location: Suffolk, VA Status: Offline Points: 127 |
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Posted: Nov 11 2021 at 5:36pm |
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kro1970, Thanks I will remember that as well.. Love having people that know what works without the need to go buy "Over Price, Fancy Name Brand" products... LMAO !!! I just remembered as I was typing my thank you... I have some of the "Hormer Formby's", (You Old Farts, like me, may remember the DIY TV show from 25-30yrs ago) re-finisher that works great and I have used it on Antique Furniture in the past, liquefies varnish very easily. Yes they still make it and is sold at Lowes, I can use.... V/r Da1Chief
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kro1970
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Posted: Nov 11 2021 at 6:00pm |
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Fromby's is the best but they don't sell it anymore. They were bought out buy Minwax and it's no longer avaiable. Minwax Refinisher is the next best thing.
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Da1Chief
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Joined: Oct 16 2021 Location: Suffolk, VA Status: Offline Points: 127 |
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Posted: Nov 11 2021 at 8:42pm |
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Kro1970, Lowe's here in Suffolk, VA. still has it on the shelves. I bought 2 cans of it about 6 months ago to refinish my grandfather's old desk. I can get some for you if you wish. They may also let you purchase online and ship to you.... (Big Smile)
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Da1Chief
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Posted: Nov 11 2021 at 9:02pm |
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I just checked again and you are correct. Lowe's no longer sells the Re-finisher. However, Amazon still has access to it and is selling the 32oz can for $89. Only 8 left in stock and can have it to you by Wednesday.
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Da1Chief
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Posted: Nov 20 2021 at 9:21am |
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Another Question that I'm sure someone has the answer to... What is the best color to use for the background in photographs (Both assembled and Individual Components/Parts) ? I am trying to document everything on my rifle down to the most minute detail, while filling out the Carbine Data Sheet. I am using ALL of the “Norwidh93CMP” YouTube videos as a guide in the procedures of filling out exactly what is needed and what to look for. So far, I am into this at the tune of well over 30 hours. This is the first time I have performed a “Complete” disassembly, so it is simply taking me forever. I’m currently on my 4th page of comments for the back of the Data Sheet. It is probably more information that is needed but I would rather give too much information than not enough and possibly mislead someone as to what I am actually finding. (Actually, my handwriting is "Hen Scratch" so I am typing out my comments for submission) I also want to Photograph every part that I can for submission. That way the experts here can view exactly what I am seeing and evaluate/comment with as much information as I can provide. I have tried "White" but I seem to get a glare and the parts just don't look like what I am seeing (Small Markings just don't seem as visible as they do to the naked eye) Other colors distort/tone down, or simply don't make good pictures. Very respectfully, Da1Chief |
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Matt_X
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Joined: Nov 10 2020 Location: Phila, Penn Status: Offline Points: 771 |
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Posted: Nov 20 2021 at 11:09am |
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In the days of film, the best background for the lightmeter was a neutral gray. I suspect that is still true for the light reading. Whatever the background colors are, they will have some effect on the object itself, so gray is again the best in this respect. Many digital camaras try to adjust for colors and types of light - and you'll have to experiment with your camara if color accuracy becomes an issue. All that said, I've used other background surfaces fairly successfully. It may be the material the object is laying on is more important than the color in terms of glare. I really like working on some sort of cloth surface both to keep the small items from bouncing or rolling away and for the glare reduction. If you can set up some white or light gray boards to reflect the lighting, that should reduce shadows. Below are some backgrounds I've tried, but its worth looking through the various featured carbines to see what you think works best. Here's one to get you started:   Old red sweatshirt (cotton) background.  This last photo is from the seller - a fulltime collectible firearms shop. |
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Da1Chief
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Joined: Oct 16 2021 Location: Suffolk, VA Status: Offline Points: 127 |
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Posted: Nov 21 2021 at 8:31am |
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Matt_X, Sorry for the late response.... I simply got tied up yesterday with the Trigger Housing... Disassembly, Cleaning, The Data Sheet, Photographs of parts and Markings, then the Reassembly. (Only Launched the Hammer Rod and Spring one time during Reassembly) Big Smile Thank You VERY much for the information on the Neutral Gray. I tried a Non-Reflective White before I read you suggestion and the photographs turned out like crap. I'm not a photographer by any means and my best camera is on my iPhone and I don't have an array of lights to set it up properly. After all this is over and done with I may take the time to have a real photographer take pictures for me. I went to the store late yesterday and purchased a Non reflective Light Neutral Gray Mat, as you suggested, and will borrow the UHD SLR Camera we have at work to get some good photos. My iPhone works good on the Large Parts but is not worth 2 cents when taking detailed pictures of small items... So yesterday turned out to be a good day, even though I will have to disassemble and take new photos. I learned a few of the tricks that you can't quite make out in the youtube videos.. You can put the Type 3 Push Button Safety in wrong... Backwards, Upside Down (facing the wrong way). Saw video that taught me the Hammer Pin goes in from the LEFT Side.. Ooops (Smile) Messed with the Trigger Spring until I tried something I had seen in a video about a week or so ago where they used Dental Floss through the loop of the spring and out the back side of the hole of the receiver, Pull String and Push at the same time and it just fell in... (Go Figure.. Should have listened and learned the first time) All I have left is the Bolt Assembly (Will tackle that today) and I should be completely through the Data Sheet. I want to thank you again for the advise and help. I'm sure it will make all the difference in the world on my next try at pictures. Very respectfully, Da1Chief
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kro1970
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Joined: Jan 01 2016 Location: Central Florida Status: Offline Points: 303 |
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Posted: Nov 21 2021 at 8:41am |
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Unless you have a bolt tool don’t attempt to take it apart.
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Da1Chief
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Joined: Oct 16 2021 Location: Suffolk, VA Status: Offline Points: 127 |
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Posted: Nov 21 2021 at 11:46am |
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kro1970, I purchased one Just for this event... (Big Smile) I had already read here and heard on YouTube video not to even try it without one. I didn't go to expense of getting a USGI Issued True WW2 item. It is a new reproduction. Hopefully it works as advertised. Thanks for the warning, Family takes care of Family.. (Big Smile) Very respectfully, Da1chief
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Very respectfully,
Da1Chief DPC,RMC,ITC(SW) USN Retired |
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New2brass
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Dan Pinto, Photo Editor Joined: Nov 29 2015 Location: CT Status: Offline Points: 4664 |
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Posted: Nov 21 2021 at 5:32pm |
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Da1Chief, the pictures you sent were pretty clear and the Iphones do take some great pics. I would not worry about backgrounds yet. The number one issue people have is trying to take close ups. It is better to take a large format picture from farther away, which is easier for the camera to focus. You can then crop down the picture and resize if needed. Light is important, but does not have to be complicated. Basically your eye adjusts to darker situations and what your eye sees and what the camera sees are 2 different things. the camera will do better with more light than less. you want the light and camera coming from the same general direction for your phone. This way the light reflects from the object back to the camera. |
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Rebel92
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Joined: Jul 20 2021 Location: Hattiesburg, MS Status: Offline Points: 541 |
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Posted: Nov 21 2021 at 7:15pm |
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Disassembly and reassembly get easier. The next time you do it, it will take you half the time. the time after that, you will have it disassembled and reassembled in 10 minutes. It took me forever initially, now I look like forrest gump at boot camp.
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Da1Chief
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Joined: Oct 16 2021 Location: Suffolk, VA Status: Offline Points: 127 |
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Posted: Nov 23 2021 at 9:32pm |
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Ok, Next Question.... Just purchased a Digital Caliper so I could get an honest measurement on my Slide Stop hole to the Cam Cut. Does anyone know what the measurement Specs of the firing pin are ? (along with anything else I should be concerned with). While it is apart I can take some easy measurements on items just to make sure everything is in good shape. V/r Da1Chief
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Very respectfully,
Da1Chief DPC,RMC,ITC(SW) USN Retired |
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