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NEED Answers, I just don't know

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W5USMC View Drop Down
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    Posted: Mar 30 2023 at 11:23pm
Number on the left side was used by Irwin Pedersen and Saginaw S'G' (Grand Rapids) to indicate blade height. Page down to "Front Sight Blade Height" in link below.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Da1Chief Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar 30 2023 at 11:17pm
Hello, I have a question concerning the marking on a few manufacturers front sight. On the outside of the left wing is a number. I am fairly sure it has to do with a modification to the sight when it went through testing and zeroing in the weapon. I’m just don’t what it represents.

If someone would provide the answer to my question I would deeply appreciate it. 

Very respectively
Da1Chief
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Da1Chief
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt_X Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 13 2022 at 8:20am
Obviously a lot of historical interest.
As far as value for use goes, the wrappers may give some clue to condition.
Although as I found sometimes the paper ones look worse but protected better than the cellophane.  Whether that relates to the wrapping material or how well it was coated with cosmoline, I don't know. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Da1Chief Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 13 2022 at 7:27am
Thank you Sir,
When I get there on Saturday morning I will take some pics and try to post from my phone, not sure how that will work trying to resized them down but will give it a try.
I just hope he dosen't want an arm and leg as payment (big smile).
Will let you know how it goes and what was available at the show when I get home.

V/r
Da1Chief
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote New2brass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 11 2022 at 10:33am
Get pics of the crate. There were cardboard boxes that held 100 magazines. The only crate I have seen holds 3 cardboard boxes of 100.

Does not mean they did not make a crate for 100 mags.
I have not seen a IBM magazine new in wrap sell for anywhere near $100, but I have not been watching closely.
Price is dependent on the marking. If it is a case of uncommon markings then maybe.

If you were planning on reselling keep in mind that the auction sites take a cut and you may want to consider that with your offer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Da1Chief Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct 11 2022 at 10:03am

Hello everyone, I'm here with another question and quite frankly I have NO idea what the answer is or should be.

 I have a Gun Show coming up this weekend (Oct 15th and 16th) in Virginia Beach.  The vendor that sold me my first IBM Carbine (Blondie) will be there.  He is bringing another IBM for me to look at along with a few parts (AOB Flat Bolt, BOB Sear, and a couple of firing pins).  He and I have struck a friendship and I trust him as to what he has to offer (as much as you can trust any vendor at a gun show).  I realize he is in to make as much profit as possible, that is his business.  My job is to buy it for as little money as he will take.

 However, he is from Florida and got hit with the past storm and is trying to put dollars back together.  during his "Clean Up" he found a wooden crate he had stored in his warehouse that is supposedly "Unmolested" and is bringing it up for my examination and possible purchase.  My problem is I have NO Idea how much it is worth or what I should Offer/Pay/Buy it for.

 The wooden crate is filled with 100, IBM Factory Magazines, still in the wrapper.  It was not exposed to any water damage in the storm.  It is supposed to have the factory certification/inventory sheet still inside.  I know it is worth a bunch and I know the going rate of new single original factory Mags can be worth $100 or more.  How much would an “Unmolested” NOS IBM Mags be worth?

 How much is it worth? What should I offer?  What would be max is should pay?

 Very respectfully,

 Da1Chief

 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Da1Chief Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar 10 2022 at 9:55am
I’m not really worried about perfection.  Don’t get me wrong i would like as good as I can get, however, I live in the real world and know it isn’t going to happen. (Big Smile). Safety for me and whoever may fire it is my major concern.

I will be carrying both over to my gunsmith soon as his safe is empty enough to take them. He is going to do a safety check on both and also validate my Data Sheets before I submit them. 
That will identify what fake parts, if any, are on/in them. I can then replace them with USGI. 

Thanks !!!  Mean That !!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote floydthecat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar 10 2022 at 5:50am
A good reason not to completely trust gauges. The gauge only gives you a general idea of the condition of an action anyway, then one must decide who’s gauge is correct. Flip a coin? No telling how many barrels or bolts are changed due to a gauge-reading trying to achieve perfection, when it’s not necessary. Measure the head space using one of several techniques and forget the gauges. No two gauges can render the same results.

Field gauges among manufacturers can range in length from 1.299 to 1.302 based on what users say they have measured. A action can fail on one and pass on another. Who’s gauge does one believe to be correct?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Da1Chief Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar 09 2022 at 10:27pm
 Yes Sir I’m positive. Both sets are properly labeled as to 30 Carbine. 

With stripped bolt, barrel and receiver out of the stock. I point barrel toward floor and carefully insert gauge until it’s started. Then rotate to level on horizontal. Very gently with one finger I lightly seat in chamber. With one finger I slide bolt forward and very lightly place the lightest pressure to attempt to seat bolt lug into battery. With the forester it will completely into battery. With the Clymer the bolt will go forward but the Lug will stop approx 1/2 way down before it stops, not going into full batter mode  

On cell right now will read your link in the morning

V/r
Da1Chief. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote W5USMC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar 09 2022 at 8:36pm
Chief, are you sure it Fails (closes on the gauge) the "No-Go Test" with the Forster and Passes (does not close on the gauge) the "No-Go Test" with the Clymer? Reason I ask is that the Forster No-Go (1.296) is a bit longer than both the USGI and Clymer No-Go's (1.295) would think your outcome would have been opposite of what you stated. See below link for more thoughts on headspace gauges.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Da1Chief Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar 09 2022 at 7:58pm
Next Question from the new guy.

Which GO, No-Go gauges have you found to be the most reliable?

I have 2 complete sets, a Forster Products and a Clymer.
Each set is New and in Perfect Condition.

Reason for asking:
My new IBM Carbine w/AOB Flat Bolt
Passes the "Go Test" with each respective Go Gauge.
Fails the "No-Go Test" with the Forster
Passes the "No-Go Test" with the Clymer

Opinions and suggestions please.

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Da1Chief
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Da1Chief Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar 07 2022 at 7:51pm
That's pretty much what I thought.  Quite Frankly I didn't think there would be but, had to ask. (Big Grin)

Thank you, Sir

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Da1Chief (Sandy to my friends)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote W5USMC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar 07 2022 at 7:39pm
I know that you can ask the CMP if a carbine was ever sold by them and for a fee they will tell you. I have read that they will not re-issue certificates. Don't think that they would "award" a certificate on any item that they did not originally sell. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Da1Chief Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar 07 2022 at 7:25pm
Next Question:  Is there any way for an individual to submit their carbine to CMP and be awarded a Certificate of Authenticity?  If so, what is the procedure?

I'm pretty sure the answer is going to be a Big Resounding NO.  However, as life has taught me: They can't tell you NO unless you ask. (Big Smile)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Da1Chief Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar 06 2022 at 3:13pm
Originally posted by New2brass New2brass wrote:

Raw Linseed Oil to clean.
Raw Linseed Oil to protect

Sir, I wish to personally Thank You for the suggestion.

After 3 hours of a "Green" "Scotch-Brite" pad and RLO it looks exactly as I wanted it to look.
It is Light Enough to know it is Birch but still dark enough to know it saw plenty of action during WWII.
The Receiver has been cleaned so many times that I would say about 45-50% is "In the White"

I just wish my IBM AO had not been covered in bright shinney lacquer and this option had been available to me.

Again, Thank You so VERY Much!

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Da1Chief
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Da1Chief Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar 06 2022 at 1:26pm
Roger That!  I will give it a Honest shot before I go to "Drastic" measures (Big Smile)

Thank You Sir !

V/r
Da1Chief



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote New2brass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar 06 2022 at 12:29pm
Raw Linseed Oil to clean.
Raw Linseed Oil to protect
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Da1Chief Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar 06 2022 at 11:13am
Picked up my second 2nd Carbine yesterday (Saturday 05Mar22).

Like my first one it is an IBM (Not and AO) Serial Number 3762334 on "I.B.M. CORP." Receiver.

Did a basic "Field Strip" this morning:  From what I see it has a lot of the correct parts in/on it.

"I.B.M. CORP" Barrel dated what appears to be 9   -43 (which should put MFG date somewhere in the Nov 43 timeframe)

Flaming Bomb located below barrel date, there is a small (approx. 1/8" tall) "P" on the barrel 1/2 down barrel from muzzle. to the Gas Piston, "P" is slightly angled from top of "P" to bottom, Left Side to Right Side (Not sure what it means, from what I have read the factory stamp "P" should be larger)

Front Sights appear to be type 1 and are stamped “N”, Rear Sights appear to be type 2 and have “H” (Inside of Shield)

"AOB" Flat Bolt (have not disassembled to check parts at this time), WMB Hammer, BOB Sear (again, have not disassembled to check it further)

Stock is stamped "SCB" in Sling Well, Hand Guard is "2 Rivet" stamped "SCB" on left side a little less than 1/2 way up from rear to muzzle.  Both Stock and Hand Guard are so dirty, I can't tell if it is Stained Birch or Black-Walnut. It is so dirty that my hands stick to it when I pick it up.

All the components do not look as though they have been cleaned in quite a while.

So here is the Question:  Other than a basic cleaning barrel bore, trigger assembly, and receiver (Using “Hoppes #9), Should I clean the stock with Formby Refinisher, Mineral Spirits or something milder? (I just hate to lose the Petina like I did on my first carbine).   Recommendations are Greatly Appreciated!  I’m at a loss as what to use.

 

Very respectfully,
Da1Chief
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kro1970 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec 28 2021 at 8:11pm
LOL actually they did a good job. They used the glass like a scraper and shaved all the old finish and cartouches off. They looked pretty!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ncin1911 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec 28 2021 at 7:57pm
Originally posted by kro1970 kro1970 wrote:

I can remember when I was a kid my neighbors were avid hunters and they ordered some M1 Carbines from the NRA to hunt with. The price was $20.00 including shipping. The first thing they did was take a broken piece of glass and shaved the cartouches off the stocks, sanded them and then applied a couple of coats of shellac. Some who had some extra spending money had them polished and blued. $20.00 in the early sixties was a good amount of money but they saw these as hunting rifles and wanted them to look nice. The grandchildren now own these carbines and I still see them. It's sad to look at a 5 million all original Inland carbine with the swivel cut off of a type 2 barrel band, a jeweled bolt and the entire carbine finished in a glossy bluing. I'm sure they were not the only ones to do this. No one thought about collectivity they were tools. I'm sure that's how a lot got sanded.

You could have kept that to yourself Ken; not feeling well now.
I pictured the acceptance stamp being scooped out like a melon ball!

This one might have been your neighbor's relative.
http://www.uscarbinecal30.com/Forum/another-one-parted-out-looking-for-cc-help_topic4489_page2.html
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