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Removing Park

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BER911 View Drop Down
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    Posted: Jan 17 2019 at 3:45pm
I have an CMP Special M1 Garand that I purchased last spring.  It appears the CMP parkerized the trigger group which has caused the safety to be VERY stiff.

I want to disassemble to trigger group and remove the park from the safety lever.  Is there a easy way to remove the park without grinding it off?

Once I get the park removed, I can do a through cleaning and lube of the trigger housing and get my safety working properly.

Any suggestions on removing to park are appreciated!
Semper Fi, Bruce
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blackfish View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blackfish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 17 2019 at 4:15pm
Naval Jelly will remove parkerization, but *ONLY* if you have *COMPLETELY* degreased the part beforehand.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kro1970 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 17 2019 at 4:33pm
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-gallon-evapo-rust-rust-remover-96431.html
This will remove parkerizing without damaging the metal
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kro1970 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 17 2019 at 4:35pm

I believe you can find it in less than the gallon container
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BER911 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BER911 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 17 2019 at 9:27pm
Originally posted by kro1970 kro1970 wrote:

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-gallon-evapo-rust-rust-remover-96431.html
This will remove parkerizing without damaging the metal

Thanks for the tip.  I will try it out.


Semper Fi, Bruce
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BER911 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BER911 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 17 2019 at 9:29pm
Originally posted by blackfish blackfish wrote:

Naval Jelly will remove parkerization, but *ONLY* if you have *COMPLETELY* degreased the part beforehand.

Thanks.  I have a jar of naval jelly in my garage. Smile

I will report back.

Semper Fi, Bruce
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sling00 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 18 2019 at 5:11am
Originally posted by BER911 BER911 wrote:

I will report back.

Please do.  Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote New2brass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 18 2019 at 9:55am
Food for thought,
Park is not an applied finish that builds up.
parkerizing actually removes surface material that etches surface giving a surface that holds oil.
. If it is binding I would first look to other reasons as to why.
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BER911 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BER911 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 18 2019 at 10:02am
I agree that removing park may remove other material. My issue is the park is new and I can actually see it causing parts to bind.

Once I get the trigger group apart, I may figure out another method to loosen things up. I just want to be prepared Incase some park needs to come off. Appreciate your comment though.
Semper Fi, Bruce
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote New2brass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 18 2019 at 10:38am
Bruce, may be explaining wrong.
Park applied etches surface removing minute amounts of the surface.
If a part is in spec then removing the park probably will do nothing. Part might be bent is what I am getting at.

The park would show if rubbing is happening.
Now if you were planning on honing and fitting before reapplying then my point is moot.
Incidently, navel jelly, coke a cola and parkerizing all have phosphoric acid.
Navel jelly is quite effective as a remover. Phosphoric acid can also be bought in paint department.
Before you go nuts thinking the park is not coming off, the navel jelly may leave a dull gray finish to metal. This due to etching. Will not hold oil like park finish though
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote arthur Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 18 2019 at 10:41am
I received a M1 rifle from CMP in the 1990's and the safety was so tight it really interfered with trigger pull due to sore, stressed finger. I sent the trigger group off to get a "trigger job"........$25.00....yep, it was a long time ago. It resolved all the problems. And no I still couldn't shoot worth a damn.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote painter777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 18 2019 at 1:01pm
Muriatic Acid
Will strip 'Parked' finish.
As Dan mentioned, the part will be left in the Raw.

Ever have a part that was parked over with the Black park? Like the Importers used....
I've used Muriatic Acid to strip the Black away and revealed the Original park.
Submerged longer will strip the original park.

Rinse with water, dry and oil. 

Follow safety guides.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blackfish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 18 2019 at 2:29pm
That probably was black paint. Parkerization makes a great primer for steel and in fact is one of its chief uses outside the military.

Parkerization passivates the bare steel surface so that once raw metal is covered, the reaction stops. I.E. you can't parkerize over the top of a parkerized finish No metal exposed means no oxidation by solution acid means no increase in local pH means no local precipitation of phosphates from solution means no coating applied to object!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote painter777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 18 2019 at 2:42pm
But you can Parkerize over a Thin/bare Parked finish.

My example was a IBM Op Slide that had been Re-parked to the deep Charcoal black color.
After dipping it revealed the original 'Thinned' Grey park.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sling00 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 18 2019 at 5:50pm
Any thought on buying a non-parked safety and trying it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BER911 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 18 2019 at 8:37pm
I need to disassemble the trigger group and assess the problem.  Certainly a non-parked safety is an option, but I want to see what I am dealing with first.  I know that a safety that requires so much pressure it leaves a DENT in you finger is not functioning properly.  Other guys in my unit take their M1's to the range and their safeties easily snap on and off.
Much appreciate all the advice.  I'll advise what I find when I get the trigger assembly apart.
 
Semper Fi, Bruce
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BER911 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 19 2019 at 6:50pm
Today I disassembled the trigger group of my M1.  I first throughly cleaned all parts & housing with Hoppes and a tooth brush.  There was some built up grease inside the housing, but basically the parts were in pretty good shape.

I used Navel Jelly on the safety, trigger/sear, hammer, hammer spring guide, trigger guard and the two metal pins.  I coated each piece with a thick coating of the Navel Jelly and let the parts sit for 10 minutes. I then used a tooth brush to scrub the parts and rinsed them in hot water.  The parts were throughly dried with compressed air.

The park finish was not totally removed, but a significant portion of it did go down the drain.  Finally, I soaked all the parts in Ballistol for about an hour before reassembly.

I test fit the safety to see where the safety makes "metal to metal" contact with other parts.  I used 600 grit emery paper to smooth the metal contact points on the safety and the respective parts.

Reassembly went smoothly.  I used Militec gun grease and oil in the appropriate locations.

The safety works a bit smoother now, but still takes more pressure than I like.  Overall, I am pleased, but I will continue to work the safety "back and forth" to further smooth it out. 
Semper Fi, Bruce
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blackfish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 20 2019 at 7:39am
Is the extraordinary force required to twist the safety relatively constant or does it pass through a maximum about halfway thru the twist?

If the latter, perhaps either
1) your double-ended plunger spring assembly that bridges the catch and safety is either not assembled fully (it's 3 separate parts) or maybe it's not USGI and so perhaps is a bit "long" for the task.

One of its plungers rides a countour machined into the safety; or
2) your safety is not good - perhaps a burr in the way?
If either and you have another, easy if you've more than one carbine, try swapping and see
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote W5USMC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 20 2019 at 10:42am
blackfish, I think the OP is talking about a M1 Garand safety not a Carbine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BER911 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 20 2019 at 1:06pm
Originally posted by W5USMC W5USMC wrote:

blackfish, I think the OP is talking about a M1 Garand safety not a Carbine.

Blackfish,

I appreciate your response, but as Wayne noted, I am taking about the safety in my M1 Garand.

============

One thing I failed to point out is all the parts in the trigger assembly were marked "SA" and all were in very good/excellent condition.  Since the rifle was sold by the CMP as a "Special", they probably rebuilt the rifle to "like-new" specs.  That explains why all the parts appear to be freshly parkerized.

I saw no signs of abnormal wear, nor damage, on the safety.  In retrospect, I think a large part of the issue with the stiff safety is simply caused by the trigger assembly being "new" and therefore the parts just need to be broken-in.

One final observation...IMHO the disassembly/reassembly of the Garand's trigger housing is much easier than the Carbine.  But both both weapons are very much fun to work on, shoot and enjoy!Smile

Semper Fi, Bruce
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