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Remove wood stain |
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InlandHunter
Recruit Joined: May 06 2018 Location: Vermont Status: Offline Points: 21 |
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Posted: Jun 22 2018 at 9:27am |
Am attempting to refinish a birch stock. Objective is natural wood with raw linseed oil same as issued by Inland in '45. Did purchase a surplus stock advertised as excellent condition. Is in good shape, but had been stained an ugly, splotchy, red, then clear coated. Was able to remove clear coat with Formby's Refinisher and bronze wool, but the stain remains impregnated within the wood. Even tried methylene chloride with little benefit. Do not want to sand. Any options? Sorry if this has been addressed previously.
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James K
On Point Joined: Jan 12 2018 Location: Longview Wa. Status: Offline Points: 66 |
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Couple days ago I sent Dan of New2brass photo of a M2 Italian Fat stock I have that had a crack I repaired. I did a light scraping before repair then a very light sanding after repair. There are specks, more so on bottom of stock that I don't want to go that far to remove. Dan may have posted a thread somewhere of the picture. I just took a photo of an old "Outdoor Life" article of stock finish removal. I have not done this but find article interesting. Private message me with e-mail if you want these pictures
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painter777
Hard Corps Joined: Feb 18 2016 Location: Central MI Status: Offline Points: 1708 |
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ZAR Paint and Varnish stripper is the best I've found, it's a semi-paste. If the after stripped wood is really light in color, you may want to stain it. If so, depending on the 'base' your stain of choice is made up of, you may need to pre-seal it before staining it. this will limit the penetration of the stain and give you a more even color. For example if your using a oil based penetrating stain, just before you stain it, wipe the grain fully with a coat of mineral spirits/paint thinner. While still damp apply the stain over the stock, wipe excess off lightly in about 15 minutes. Do not use a stain with a mixed in type of varnish...aka like stain and finish all in 1 can. Of course you could worry about how to (if desired) stain later. Right now the objective is to strip the stain. Zar-semi-paste will do it, but be prepared it is a 'Hot' stripper. In this link see my reply #4 for some more info, it refers to painted rack numbers but will pull stain easier: HTH, Charlie-Painter777
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Living Free because of those that serve.....
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InlandHunter
Recruit Joined: May 06 2018 Location: Vermont Status: Offline Points: 21 |
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Charlie, thanks for the Zar stripper tip. Do you know if the active ingredient is methylene chloride same as other popular products, or is it unique? I don't intend to darken or stain the stock prior to refinish with raw, linseed oil. This is a bring back gun that I molested as a kid attempting to checker it. The original stock was a light, natural color I wish to reproduce.
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painter777
Hard Corps Joined: Feb 18 2016 Location: Central MI Status: Offline Points: 1708 |
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I use the Metal can, which is the 'Hot' one. It has Methylene Chloride.
I've never used the Plastic jug, which is the 'Eco Friendlier' version. It has Benzyl Alcohol. |
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Living Free because of those that serve.....
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painter777
Hard Corps Joined: Feb 18 2016 Location: Central MI Status: Offline Points: 1708 |
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To Add:
Had to re-post, kept timing out on me. Neither product needs to be final neutralized. I wash off residue when using the metal can/Hot one by brushing with mineral spirits or paint thinner. Read on the Eco friendly/plastic jug pdf that it requires a wash down with water. Good Weekend to you, CH-P777
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Living Free because of those that serve.....
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