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Winchester m1 carbine being brought back to life.. |
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David Albert
Hard Corps Status Quo Challenger Joined: Dec 27 2015 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 1003 |
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Marty and eestes,
Thanks for your input on the serial number re-use issue. Based on the the input you provided from JB Powers, in regards to no elbow room being provided in the initial contracts, then the financial incentive to re-use scrapped serial numbers was inherent. A manufacturer could not complete a contract quota without re-using scrapped serials, and they could not derive a profit from those serials unless they went out the door as completed firearms. That's a "built in" financial incentive. David Albert dalbert@sturmgewehr.com |
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NRA Life Member
Past Pres., The American Thompson Association Amer. Society of Arms Collectors OGCA/TCA/Carbine Club/GCA/IAA SAR Writer Author - The Many Firearm Designs of Eugene Reising Eagle Scout |
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sfal7418
On Point Joined: Aug 18 2016 Location: RI Status: Offline Points: 108 |
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I just picked up a win that displays alot of these same features.....at first I thought the sn was 1829310...and it was a lateer issue by the fact that sn is visible behind rear sight bayo lug with C on band etc....but the sn is 1329310 close to op's number.....i will take a more in depth look at it and report back in a new thread so as not to intrude on this thread.....love all the history and stories these carbines produce
My thought about sn 1829310 being later was out of being a newbe to carbines...i knew win started a 1 million and thought they went to 2 million....i realize now they had different blocks |
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Marty Black
Moderator Group Editor in Chief Emeritus Joined: Dec 30 2015 Location: Pismo Beach, CA Status: Offline Points: 100336 |
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Yeah, as "Why Carbines" suggested....enjoy your beautiful carbine, just be careful with it. Keep it clean and lubed (a thin film of "white lithium" lubriplate-type grease where the blued/parkerized finish is worn off, a drop of oil on springs). Exception - don't put any oil or grease on the bolt face or the finish wear on the top of the round bolt. That lube will end up on your glasses when you fire the carbine! (I tried the brown GI grease - in the little plastic cup - in the old days, but found that it dried and then evaporated...at least it seemed to!)
Don't forget a thin film of grease on the face of the hammer, where it strikes the firing pin tang. I do that maybe once a year. You can get that lubriplate grease at any hardware store, sporting goods store, or boat store. The internet will have guidelines on where to lube a carbine, but the recommendations in the above paragraph will suffice. The ONLY place you should be generous with the grease is in the milled-out area of the slide that engages the right lug of the bolt. By pulling the slide back slightly, you can swab that area with a small artist's paint-brush. You don't even have to take the gun apart. You don't need a lot in there - but I'd recommend a bit more than a thin film. And then use that small artist's brush to put a thin film of grease in that milled slide guideway on the right side of the receiver. A thin film is sufficient. Any surplus you apply will be thrown off the carbine when you fire it....and it usually ends up on your glasses. Decades ago, I used to take the slide off, and clean all the carbon off the inside rear "wall." That is "blow by" from the gas piston. But I now think that's a waste of time. It's a lot of work to get that baked-on carbon off, and as soon as you fire the carbine again, it's back! I also used to pull the piston rearward with my fingernails, and put a little oil on the walls of the piston. I now think that's a waste of time and effort also. But...whatever floats your boat. After use, I always wipe my carbines down with an old silicone gun preservative cloth, available at any sporting goods store. After decades of use, this old cloth has got all kinds of gun oil, gun grease, some linseed oil residue, etc., on it, but one good wipe gets your sweaty fingerprints off the metal and leaves a very thin film of oil in the "pores" of the steel. That has always worked for me, despite living in humid environments. Never put a plug in the bore and never store a carbine in a GI canvas case. All this stuff is personal preference. I'm sure every collector who shoots his carbines has his own cleaning and care recipe that works for him. Do whatever works for you! Enjoy, MB |
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Marty Black
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ekruegerv
Recruit Joined: Mar 09 2017 Location: CA Status: Offline Points: 21 |
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Link to pictures from 1.5yrs year ago.. Also, I've completed the data sheet... I'm not sure on the coatings on the hammer and associated pins. I've labeled them blued, they are black-ish and not the Parkerized look of green. |
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wmmwraghd
Recruit Joined: Jan 16 2016 Location: Dallas,Tx Status: Offline Points: 46 |
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That is an exceptional reused # WRA carbine. Thanks for sharing!
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Paul1262
Grunt Joined: Jun 25 2018 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 151 |
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Just curious, was the barrel dated?
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m1a1fan
Hard Corps Got Para? Joined: Jan 01 2016 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 1736 |
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When filling out a data sheett, I try to report what I see like:
Light Grey Light/Medium Grey Medium Grey Medium/Dark Grey Dark Gray Matte Black Blued Etc... |
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Paul1262
Grunt Joined: Jun 25 2018 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 151 |
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I answered my own question concerning name and date on barrel after rereading your initial list of specifications. No name or date on barrel.
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ekruegerv
Recruit Joined: Mar 09 2017 Location: CA Status: Offline Points: 21 |
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Sorry for the late reply.. I hadn't received an email that there was a new post. As you replied, no there was not a date or name on the barrel.
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Paul1262
Grunt Joined: Jun 25 2018 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 151 |
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No need for apology. I appreciate your reply.
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Rebel92
Grunt Joined: Jul 20 2021 Location: Hattiesburg, MS Status: Offline Points: 541 |
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This is an identical twin of my 6.5 million Winchester. Darker handguard color and everything. Only mine isnt a reused serial number! Mine is also in wildly good condition. I know this is an old thread, but just stumbled upon it!
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