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cleaning mags

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Charles View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Charles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 18 2021 at 8:46am
Just watched a very informative demonstration about the different DRY lubricants and the results will surprise you. A must see video. 
Charles
Co B 1st Batl.115 Inf. Reg.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Donnie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 18 2021 at 9:02am
Originally posted by Charles Charles wrote:

Just watched a very informative demonstration about the different DRY lubricants and the results will surprise you. A must see video. 
Well, I am for one surprised....that you didn't share the video. Wink  We all want to know if our favorite dry lube was slammed. Disapprove
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Charles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 18 2021 at 9:23am
I am not as clever as you .
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Dan Pinto, Photo Editor

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote New2brass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 18 2021 at 11:21am
There was a mention of WD-40. It might be good for cleaning. It is also hygroscopic, meaning it has the tendency to absorb moisture from the air.

Wipe the WD-40 off once clean and use a suitable protection unless you want surface rust

Kerosene is #1 diesel fuel, The diesel fuel for cars and trucks is #2 diesel fuel. I will add that #2 heating oil is #2 Diesel fuel which has dye added to it to differentiate it as not being taxed for road use.
#1 is lighter than #2. If you are not using as a fuel then It probably will not matter to cosmoline.

Maybe it is just my location but last time I went to buy kerosene it was 27 bucks a gallon!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt_X Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 18 2021 at 12:27pm
I used to use a lot of WD-40 for cleaning.  It does seem to be good at carrying off dirt.  Its also not a bad penatrating oil, although not my first choice.   I used to use it on bicycle chains as it left them pretty dry and so didn't hold road dirt and grime.  Later my friends in the bike shop gave me grief about that and convinced me to use something that would provide 'better lubrication'.  At the time the various liquid wax type products were the in thing.  Now I'm told they're out.  Its really hard to know with these proprietary products what the actual properties are. 

All that was to get to this.  I was really a bit surprised to see how well WD-40 (regular) did in this guy's test of sliding friction as well as moisture resistance.
(Some of you may have seen this as its a link from CMP's forum, where its pinned)

I'm NOT saying his tests are definative.  But they are interesting reference points.
  For example many more products did better at protecting from moisture (even salt water) immediately after application, than after drying (or evaporating?).

In terms of reducing friction, the surface finishes of his test sled were very smooth compared to many machined surfaces.  It also wasn't subject to repeating motion. Motion that might remove the oils and soon result in metal to metal contact.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1st M1 88 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 18 2021 at 6:26pm
  Just went to WD-40 web sight.  They claim the WD in WD stands for water displacement.  I know that I have used it after washing parts for transmissions in a washer that used hot water and soap.   Would bring out cleaned parts and spray with WD-40 and let sit over night with no issued.  This is just my experience with it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote New2brass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 18 2021 at 8:34pm
Displacing water is one thing, and being a preventative is another.  I used to deal in used machinery and I cannot tell you how many rusty machines were "Protected" with WD-40. Some you could make out the spray marks that are nor represented in rust.

As to the post on the "day at the Range" Matt posted you will see that he used WD-40 and WD-40 Specialist.
I am not familiar with the latter, but will pick some up at the next trip to the hardware store. Wont be using it on my firearms though. I will stick with my dehumidifiers and regular cleanings.

I also only glossed over it it seemed the longest control test was 20 something days. Also regular WD-40 was eliminated at that point.
If we are talking about long term storage being a month, have at it and let me know how it turns out. I may take a piece of metal and bath in in the specialist and through it in the shed to see how it holds over time
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1st M1 88 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 19 2021 at 8:57am
I have no experience with long term storage with WD-40 was just saying that it worked well for displacing the water after cleaning.  None of the parts sat for longer than 12 hours.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote painter777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 19 2021 at 5:46pm
I sure know what not to use WD40 on...

Years ago (Pre-Internet) I decided to use WD40 on one of my Wife's Pre 1930's Musical German Black Forest Cuckoo clocks.
All parts, case, decorative details, bellows, mechanical components...... Everything Authentic. 
How hard could it be ? Clock just needed some oil... right ?
I laid a thin layer of dry cheesecloth over the mechanics and lightly sprayed over it. Let it set a few hours, wound it and carefully hung it back up. It was purring like a kitten and me grinning away at what I knew I'd saved $$. She has quite the clock collection and back then they'd run $375 to over $400+ for just a cleaning and oiling.

She wasn't home, it was a surprise for her when she heard / seen it working again for all of a couple days. Then after a few days of 'The Look' she called her Clock guy. The old gruff German guy had it about 3 or 4 weeks. He called her when it was ready and requested I be there. I figured no big deal he is old and that clock is F'ing heavy. Upon arriving he chewed on me for what felt like a hour. Clocks take multiple types of oil and lube depending on the part. My WD40 trick discolored and gummed up the brass gears. Worst thing was it had attracted moisture that affected the balance of precision parts. My WD40 backyard tune up cost me over $1500.00 and near ruined a clock valued back then at over $6k. He showed me minute bottles of highly refined oils that he said ran nearly $200 per fl oz.

To this day when I see a can of it I think about that clock.
I'll use WD40 to break a nut and bolt apart, if I can't find the Liquid Wrench. But I'll put real oil on it when it's being put back together. So the next time it will unscrew.

FWIW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1st M1 88 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 19 2021 at 6:18pm
  I agree there are certain oils for certain applications.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt_X Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 19 2021 at 8:08pm
This is classic example of what I hate about propriatary and SSS.
Its nearly impossible to know what's in them and so its impossible to know if the stuff is compatible.
I've seen charts for automative greases showing which bases are comaptible and which are not.   But in the automotive and industrial markets there's a lot of pressure from the manufacturers and the industries themselves to use products that meet certain standards and specs.

What do we have to rely on?  Not much.  For the carbines we know there were two oils spec'd during the war, and the standard gun oil (heavier) was obsoleted. 
A few months ago I bought the SSSS oil and grease that Fulton has been selling because I figured they were 'the experts'.  Well now I have my doubts about how deep their expertise in lubricants goes.

For those who dont know
SSS =  Secret Squirrel S___  or any number of variants thereof.
Add another S for Super.  That's the really good stuff.

And not to pick on WD, a can of it bailed me out of a situation yesterday.  The sno-throw's clutch wouldn't slide on the shaft - maybe from the ancient grease.  WD cleaned it up enough to work pretty well.  Then I used it to get the grease off my hands since I nothing else there.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Beezer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 19 2021 at 9:35pm
I bought a jar of Super Lube.  I use it on all moving parts that rub.  I’ve noticed it holds up better than Hoppes gun grease.  

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt_X Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 20 2021 at 12:05pm
@painter777  Last night I was thinking if the WD's reaction with (some?) oils is similar to ammonia for removing wax and oil.  It cuts wax or oil residue real well,  but if it dries before its picked up it turns into a black sticky mess. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt_X Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 21 2021 at 2:06pm
This morning a couple of magazines arrived that were still more or less in their wrappers.

One other solvent that is even weaker than mineral spirits is butane (lighter fluid).
I thought about using that but when I removed the paper it felt waxy, not sticky.  IMO the lighter fluid wouldn't be strong enough.  Besides I have lots of used mineral spirits so here are the before and after.

As received


Out of their respective wrappers.


The one with the red  [cellophane ?] wrapper went in first as it was the cleaner of the two.
I used a soft toothbrush to scrub the spots that had rust or residue.  It was in the spirits 5 - 10 minutes at most.
The one out the brown wrap needed a little more soaking and scrubbing.  It was in the spirits 10 to 15 minutes at most.


Inside the red cellophane[?] was a Int'l Silver for Inland.  It needed less cleaning but had rust wherever the finish had been lost.
Inside the brown wrap was a J L  Clark for Rockola.  After cleaning the exterior, it looks rust free.

I'll disassemble both and clean the insides the same way.  But I thought people would like to see how well even previously used mineral spirits/paint thinner works.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote painter777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 21 2021 at 4:48pm
When I was still working we'd buy Thinner by the 45 gal barrel. Depended how big the on going - upcoming jobs were. We'd usually average buying 5 or 6 at a time for Industrial jobs. Maybe use 1,000 gals to complete + or - . I remember (back in the day) getting it for $1.50 a gallon. We'd mark and use empty barrels to collect used thinner. Like stated earlier after letting the solids settle we'd use it as first clean, then finish off with fresh thinner. Problem with metal containers is they would sweat and collect moisture. Much prefer the plastic jugs.
When the used barrels were no longer needed I had a bunch of people that would take them for burn barrels.

When we painted the Lansing GM Assembly Plant addition on the big open areas 1 man could put out 1,000 gals in a 12 hr shift. Usually 6 Sprayers a shift, night and day. 24hrs could see 12,000 - 14,000 gallons of ceiling Dry Fall sprayed on. It would take 12 to 14 men to maintain the pump stations to keep material getting to those 6 spray tips. Add the cover up and draping crews along with the (Sub'ed out) scaffold crews and you could have 60 Journey men / Laborers to keep 6 men spraying overhead deck a shift. I had people from all over coming for barrels. I miss the challenge..... but my back sure doesn't.

Rust Spots,
I tried some of that rust convertor that turns rust black on some mags by spot treating with a Q tip.
Letting it dry between, by repeated dabbing with the Q tip or foam brush you could build the area back up flush. Now it does get darker and darker the more you apply, until it dries over clear with no rust it can get to anymore to neutralize.  Rust is neutralized and the resulting 'Black' won't match your original Blue but sure looks better with no worries of the Rust starting up again. And if using a Foam brush that Thinner will rinse it out to be used again.

Matt,
Nice Re-Use of your Thinner.
BTW, I just seen a JLC (or is it JTC ?) mag in fair condition fetch around $70 + or - the other day on Auction.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote painter777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 21 2021 at 4:57pm
Add to my above reply:

Should have added I lightly spot sanded the rust areas before treating with the turn Black rust convertor.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt_X Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 21 2021 at 8:41pm
Originally posted by painter777 painter777 wrote:


BTW, I just seen a JLC (or is it JTC ?) mag in fair condition fetch around $70 + or - the other day on Auction.

Ch-P777


I think I'm going to pretend you didn't tell me that. LOL.
But if someone here really needs, let me know..
I'll have to treat it nice now.  The stamp is very light.  I think the magazine itself seems slightly heavier than the I.I.   The magazine catches are wider and more round.  Now I'll have to go over the SG and S'G' magazines.  Probably should be cleaned and wiped with oil anyway.



Re: recycling paint thinner.  Learned that from the painter when I worked for the NPS on maint.  Much much smaller scale than you were doing, but concept is the same. 

For the rust touchup I was going to try that "Blue magic" system since I have it.  The one big spot on the side is pretty rust free.  However I like your suggestion.  I'll have to make sure I pick up some rust convertor.  I'm pretty sure what I had went bad and I tossed it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 68coupe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 23 2021 at 10:09pm
Standard Zippo lighter fluid (Ronsonol) is aliphatic naptha. Ronsonol is a subsidiary of Zippo inc. Therefore, buy the Ronsonol & get what you pay for instead of paying extra for the name. Even better, buy it by the quart or gallon at Lowes & save even more on the SAME product.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote New2brass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 24 2021 at 12:14pm
I recently went to pick up some naphtha at the big box store for cleaning electronic contacts

I found there is no longer a place on the shelf for it.
I went to the local hardware store and they no longer stock it in qt size. The price of the gallon expensive at 65 bucks!

I found some Ronsonal to use.

So is it covid, or is it something that is being phased out?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1st M1 88 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 24 2021 at 2:39pm
Just did a search of the local home depot and they have it in quart size at eight bucks.
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